groundgrounding-and-bondingmounting
What would be a sturdy and efficient way to mount a single 10 AWG solid core ground wire along an unfinished concrete basement wall (connectors, fasteners, etc)? I'm connecting a server rack ground bar to ground to prevent static electricity build up. I planned on coming down from ceiling between the receptacles in picture.
If the switch has no exposed metallic parts after installation—and has no ground terminal—then a ground connection to the switch is not needed. Connect the three ground wires together (one from the power source, and two for the travelers).
If the timer has exposed metal, then there should be a ground screw. If the junction box it is installed into is metal, ground the box by adding a fourth ground wire into the junction with the other three grounds, and screw the other end of the wire to the j-box. Use metal screws to install the timer into the j-box: This grounds the timer and was the standard way of house grounding up until sometime in the 1960s.
If the j-box is not metal, but the timer has some exposed metal, run a ground wire to it and fasten it securely somehow. (Maybe add link to a photo of the timer for better advice.)
A crimp on eyelet or forked spade connector should do. There's nothing particular about a turntable ground wire like there might be for an antenna wire. I'd probably cut off the damaged end, re-strip with the appropriate size tool, and crimp to fresh wire. A locking pliers (Vice-Grip) works will in a pinch. So to speak.
It's also possible that the wire never had a connector. Some grounding lugs are designed to take a bare wire. Simply wrap the wire once around the lug, under any washer that's present, and snug it down lightly.
Best Answer
The traditional would be drill holes, insert plugs and use a cable clip with a nail or screw. This is a lot of work. Alternatives would be to glue it.
As to connecting it, the Good way to do it is with cable lugs. That requires tools to install. Solid core may also be terminated directly to the ground lugs of the rack.
But note that you are not bonding to dissipate static. You're bonding to ensure that all conductive surfaces are at the same potential. Concrete is conductive, so if the concrete is earthed, and the rack is not, you may get a potential difference between the rack and concrete. This can shock you. For dissipating static electricity, a high resistance is commonly used to avoid dangerous currents trough the dissipation wire.