How to waterproof wall sheathing along concrete steps
ledger
kick board with nothing between it and concrete is rotting. What can I do?
Best Answer
Well, you aren't going to keep all the water out. The builder should've applied a water barrier before pouring the concrete. You'll have to decide whether the sheathing is degraded enough that you need to replace it. Here's what I'd do (after letting everything dry out well):
Procure some flexible waterproof membrane such as ice and water shield or window flashing tape. It should be gummy on the back side so it bonds to itself and seals around fasteners.
Apply it to the sheathing along the concrete, tight to the joint. Use staples along the top and wherever needed to hold it securely to the sheathing. It should run up the wall at least 6" or whatever space is available.
Caulk the membrane/concrete joint with a high-quality caulk. Silicone is ok. Latex is not. Urethane is better. Create a substantial, coved bead, but try to keep it small enough that it'll be hidden under the j-channel. Use masking tape on the concrete 1/2" away from the sheathing if you like.
Even if you've restrained the deck to prevent the ledger from pulling away more, I would be worried about those nails failing. If there's much separation between the ledger and the house you'll be putting bending stress on those nails. Is it feasible to add the lag bolts now? You haven't provided a picture or much description of the ledger area so it's hard to say what's practical, but I would say that getting that ledger securely fastened is critical to the safety of the deck.
Since this deck seems like it might have been a casual DIY job, you might also investigate the water membranes / flashing to make sure you're keeping moisture away from the house. Flashing may be difficult to retrofit but if it's missing or inadequate you should make an attempt to address that problem. Water can cause a huge amount of damage to both the deck and the house. There are several questions on this site that discuss ledger flashing.
If you can't properly secure the ledger to the house you might consider converting the porch to be free-standing, but that's a whole new project.
Perfect world ... the flashing would be gav metal and create a template (opening) for the vents. Top and side exterior would overlap this flashing top down to DRAIN water (installed as bottom, side, top). I'll mention tar paper here, or peel-n-stick, to underlay and cover any missteps...USE IT.
If...when...you replace the wood, and peel-n-stick the area (bottom up so top overlaps bottom), it will never leak! Your problem is more of a surface issue where the vent is recessed. Fix that and bluff the vent out to make even with the exterior surface, then seal and flash in.
Caulk..and press caulk into any crevises or corners...the outline of the template when finished for a water tight seal.
Don't be scared of the opening, put a hose to it to check for leaks and see where/how you need to repair.
kick board with nothing between it and concrete is rotting. What can I do?
Best Answer
Well, you aren't going to keep all the water out. The builder should've applied a water barrier before pouring the concrete. You'll have to decide whether the sheathing is degraded enough that you need to replace it. Here's what I'd do (after letting everything dry out well):