blower
It only has a few hours on it and may have been stored for an extended time with fuel mix in it. It starts quickly but when I give it full throttle it bogs down. If I pump the throttle lever it seems to run better. See video for details. https://youtu.be/V9IC5inkru8
Here is the disassembled card
There are a multitude of blowers out there. The outside breaker you mention likely has no relation to this problem. The pipes are indeed freezing due to too little airflow. Here are the most likely causes and solutions for this:
Assuming you have one of the most common PSC types (and not some other type like an ECM, slip induction, etc), then a weak run capacitor for the blower motor can cause this problem. The run capacitor for the blower should be checked with a capacitance meter and replaced if it is below 90% of the rated value. Or, if you happen to know how to use an ESR meter, then check the capacitor that way.
It is possible that it is a multi-speed motor with the wrong lead energized in the "cool" mode. Typically Red=Low, Blu=Med, Blk=High. The black lead is usually the one needed for a/c operation.
Sometimes the motors wear out by having the lubricant in the bearings go dry. In this case the blower wheel will not turn effortlessly and smoothly by hand when the unit is off. If the bearings are dry, then you need a new blower motor.
(unusual) Since you have a heat pump, if it is a higher performance model it may have an electronic blower speed control that is supposed to automatically slow the blower when it is very cold outside to ensure an adequate warm air temp inside. Typically, this would be shunted to high speed blower mode for a/c operation, but if a control relay has failed or appropriate wire become lose, or other fan speed control failure has occurred, then the speed control could be causing the blower to run very slowly (as it would in cold weather heating operation). If you have this then you will have to determine if it has failed by temporarily bypassing it to see if the fan runs on high speed without the speed control unit inline.
Verify main power for the unit is off before proceeding with any of this work. The main power for the air handler is usually separate and in addition to the main power for the outdoor unit.
**Edit: I see that Ducane air handlers offer options including both electronic blower speed controls as well as constant torque (ECM) motors. If your unit has either of these then the low speed problem may have other causes. For example, ECM motors have an electronic digital driver that is set using DIP switches or other means. An incorrect low torque setting yields low blower speed. I recommend you post the exact model number of your air handler as well as a photo of the interior showing the back end of the blower motor and the control board. A close up of any DIP switches as well as a legible photo of the schematic on the inside panel would be nice too if you want any additional comments.
OK, so that is a "Split Phase" AC induction motor, meaning there is a centrifugally operated switch inside of it that is supposed to change state at a certain speed in order to allow the motor to run. Without getting too deep in the weeds of AC motor theory, single phase motors will not rotate on their own, they need to be "tricked" into starting to rotate, then once they are, they will continue doing so. One of the "tricks" is called a "Split Phase" design. The winding is in two parts, one of them designed to"bump" the motor in one direction, the other designed to run it once it begins rotating. The first part has low power capability, all it is supposed to do it get it started (bump it), then a centrifugally operated switch on the shaft kicks in the other part of the winding that actually creates the rated torque. That centrifugal switch is not functioning correctly in your motor, so it appears as though your start winding is being left in place and the run winding is not being connected.
These switches wear out, or they get filled with dust and gunk over the years, especially if the blower is being used for dust collection or extraction, like in a cooking vent hood. In most cases, that switch is located under the end bell housing on the NON drive-end of the motor, meaning the end WITHOUT the shaft that is connected to your clutch. The simplest attempt for you to try is to open that up and spray in a bunch of "Electrical Contact Cleaner" that you can buy from most hardware or auto-parts stores. Just do NOT spray it in there with the motor plugged in, and let it thoroughly dry out before you do apply power; that cleaner is flammable.
In this photo, the centrifugal switch is not labeled, but is directly below the word "winding":
If that doesn't work, the contact points are likely burned and it needs to be replaced, you can buy replacement centrifugal switches over the internet from numerous sources, probably even Grainger (who sells the Dayton line). That's not a job for the feint of heart however, there are springs and levers and wires that must be carefully disassembled and reassembled. So if you DON'T want to tackle that, you can remove the motor and take it to a motor shop, they can do that for you. Or, you can just buy a new motor, it might cost you less...
Best Answer
You said:
These sorts of engines are VERY sensitive to storage with Ethanol-containing fuel in them. Your carburetor is almost certainly damaged or clogged and needs to be replaced or cleaned and rebuilt.
Do not EVER store such equipment without draining the fuel first and I've found it helpful use use E0 fuel (i.e. 0% Ethanol content) at all times. You can buy this at most home centers and hardware stores (See "TruFuel" or similar) brands or at gas retailers such as marinas and Farm Bureau Coops that sell E0 gasoline.