You have two big issues here.

First is that you have a serious risk of venting sewer gasses into your home. This is why drain vents open above the roof line or use one-way air admittance valves. This is likely to be unpleasant and possibly unhealthy.

Second is that a drain vent is typically too small and too moist to properly vent a bathroom fan. Your fan is probably designed to use a 4" duct, and instead it's going through a 1.5" diameter pipe. And if any lint/dust gets pushed out by your fan, it risks accumulating on the sides of the vent pipe, potentially blocking the pipe and slowing both your drainage and ventilation.

Beyond those functional problems, you'll also have a pretty visible issue that anyone inspecting your attic will see. You should do this the right way: add a properly-sized duct line and a roof vent for ventilation, and re-seal your drain vent pipe.

This could be an option, as long as a few conditions are met.

There should be a damper

A damper will prevent outside air from entering the exhaust pipe, traveling down the length and entering the conditioned space. Most exhaust vent covers are designed in such a way, so that even on windy days the exhaust can still be exhausted. If you just have a pipe pointing to the outside, it's possible the outside air pressure can overcome the exhaust air pressure preventing the exhaust from exhausting.

There shouldn't be a way for the exhaust to reenter the building

If you simply close the window on a pipe that does not completely fill the opening, it's very likely that air pressure differences will force the exhausted air right back in the window. You'll want to devise a way to prevent the exhausted air from reentering the building. This other answer illustrates a way to install the vent, while blocking the entire window opening.