Kenmore 96573230 Dryer Heating Element Too Hot? (420° F)

As others said, you need to tell us more about your readings, meter type.

I'm thinking your reading is probably 10 ohms. 120 volts / 10 ohms = 12 amps, sounds about right. Check the nameplate rating on the dryer, see if its close to that. What is the thermal fuse rating?

Check the wiring, see if the circuit measures a low resistance to the dryer case, indicating a short. If all checks are good, it could be a stressed fuse that went over time. If you have a clamp on ammeter, check the running current against the nameplate rating on the dryer with a new fuse in place. If the thermal fuse is expensive or hard to get, then substitute a temporary fuse of the same rating just to test with before replacing the OEM fuse.

The heating element would not work at all if a leg is broken. If the clothes were warm when it shut down, then it clearly just happened. The online wiring diagram is virtually impossible to read, but it appears the heating element is interlocked through the motor controller. It's conceivable that if one part fails, the other is shut down, but it's impossible to tell from what I have available.

It makes complete sense to go ahead and repair the heating element since it is obviously broken. Don't worry about thermostats etc. at this point, fix what's broken and go from there. There's a fair chance that's all that's wrong.