I would say that this is highly dangerous. It is against US and Canadian code to not have outside ventilation for any fuel-burning appliance in your home; that's your furnace, HWH and stove/oven, assuming all are NG or propane. It is only acceptable to have a "filter-only" vent hood for your stove if it's all-electric (which BTW is the case for every single apartment I've ever rented; gas appliances may be cheaper on utility bills in the US, but a gas stove is a huge fire hazard and general liability for any landlord).
The code is in place for a very good reason; not only can inefficient burning of fossil fuels produce carbon monoxide and smoke (both of which continue to cause damage long after you've reached fresh air), but even when these fuels burn ideally, they remove oxygen from the air and replace it with CO2. CO2 in itself is not toxic in the same way CO and soot smoke are; as soon as you reach fresh air the symptoms of CO2 asphyxia begin to dissipate, while soot and CO poisoning ("smoke inhalation") can kill you hours after you reach fresh air. However, the consumption of oxygen and production of CO2 in a space with inadequate ventilation is a double-whammy for anyone in the same space; the oxygen is being consumed so there's less of it even in upper strata of the room's air, and as the CO2 builds it settles downward in a "blanket", pushing oxygen up towards the ceiling and away from you.
As the CO2 level builds, your body's natural "inhale/exhale" reflexes go haywire in a Catch-22 condition called hypercapnia; your natural breathing while in a high-CO2 atmosphere actually increases the CO2 levels in your blood, but the only thing your body can do to reduce CO2 levels is breathe. So, you start hyperventilating, which only exacerbates the problem. Should you pass out from lack of oxygen, you will not wake up if someone else doesn't get you out of the room or get some ventilation of fresh air through it.
Your landlord is running illegal housing. However, he may not know it, so be nice at first. Follow standard procedure for maintenance requests, and ask the landlord to install a proper outside vent line for this fume hood. If he refuses or drags his feet, you can call in the city's Code Compliance officials, or federal HUD (Housing and Urban Development) representative, and they will MAKE the landlord comply. Depending on the terms of your contract, the landlord may be giving you a free out by not living up to his end, meaning you may be able to break the lease at no cost if this has gone on for some time with the landlord's knowledge and inaction.
Understand that the cheapest way for your landlord to fix the problem with tenants still occupying the units may well be to cap off the gas feed and replace all the gas cooktops with the cheapest electric setups he can find. If this was the reason you moved in, and you don't get a "free out" from this debacle, you may find yourself stuck with a spiral-coil POS.
The size of the hood does matter. As well as the distance from the cooking surface since this impacts the capture of the smoke and odors.
If two hoods have 900 CFMs, but one is 36 inches, and the other 30 inches, you will probably get better exhausting from the smaller hood. Because the velocity of air entering the hood is higher with the smaller hood area.
It won't make much difference if you buy a flat glass or curved glass hood because the shape of the entrance of the air didn't change much if it's still a rectangle.
The CFM to duct size question is mostly a matter of actual CFM, the flow will be reduced with a smaller exhaust duct.
You can use a smoke stick or matches to test the capture affect of your existing exhaust. Start far away from the stove top and move closer until you can "see" the air moving towards the exhaust. You can get an idea of how well your existing exhaust works and what you need to improve the design.
You could try cutting some cardboard and covering the existing opening. Either a flat piece with a rectangular opening or a more elaborate reducer. Then apply the smoke again and see how the capture changes. Put your and at the opening before and after you do this so you have somewhat of an idea of how the air velocity changed with open area.
Best Answer
Try it & see if you don't like it. ALL cooktops are zero clearance to counters & drawers, gas or electric...always have been. Bosch is no different whether it's induction or not. They just want you about 2" from the countertop front & back for pot & pan clearances.
Other than that, if you don't need the drawer for it's current use. You can turn it into a plate warmer by lining it with tin foil. This will put any fire worries to rest & you'll even be able to keep food warm, not hot, just warm.