I am trying to attach aluminum posts to stainless steel eating utensils so that I can then screw the posts into my kitchen cabinets. The directions said to use bonding glue, but I've tried JB Weld and Pro Line Fast Grab Premium Loctite, but neither work. Would soldering be the answer or do I need to find someone to weld them?
Kitchens – How to attach stainless steel utensils to aluminium posts
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Durability - I have often seen the stainless/chrome plated hose breaking up after a few years... this is where the hose splits along the seam of the hose... This will not happen with the braided hose due to the fact that you have a netted sheath. Also. the braided pattern is more flexible than its counterpart.
Cost - This hose is substantially cheaper than the corrugated style hose.
Ease of manufacturing and assembly: this hose can be crimped during assembly, the alternative is to use more complex and expensive screw clamps to assemble the unit.
You will probably also find the regular stainless braided hose like this:
You're mixing grease with lint, which is only going to make a mess and clog up in no time. You could also create a situation where dryer exhaust goes back into your house instead of outside, causing excessive humidity and a mold/mildew risk. The workaround for that would be to install dampers, but those would likely get jammed with the grease/lint combination. And that's assuming that this would be within code, which I suspect it isn't, or every builder would cut the corner. So, in short, my suggestion is that you don't even consider joining the two.
Also, a suggestion, only use flex pipe for the final hookup to each device, and cut away any excess flex tubing. The rest should be rigid metal venting for durability and to give you the best airflow.
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Best Answer
You will have better luck brazing the stainless steel (which has nickel and chromium) to a brass or bronze post. Brazing is a hotter form of soldering, You might inquire if a jeweler would silver solder it for you. Other wise, torches, special flux and special solder are needed.
A less expensive option would be a better grade of epoxy. System 3 or some of the 3M industrial epoxies. As Chris said, there must be a GOOD MECHANICAL fit first, the part shapes must align closely to allow the adhesive to bind.
On another note, you should try to abrade both parts in the contact area to give the adhesive a "toothing" point to grab.