kitchens
The manufacturer of the current kitchen exhaust I'm looking to replace has gone belly up for a long time. I'm struggling to find out from the labels on its cfm stats. How would you suggest finding this information, or is it irrelevant (when I can calculate the cfm I need)?
Thanks in advance!
I think the focus on the duct size and length is misleading here. Duct size can matter if it is a severe restriction in the system, but a factor more likely to be a problem is that you are using a axial fan and not an centrifugal fan.
Each installation of a range hood will have its own resistance to the flow of air. This will depend on the restriction of the entire air flow circuit. The most common sources of restriction in that circuit are the following:
Resistance curves plot the air pressure the fan will encounter versus the air flow that the fan is pushing. A characteristic resistance curve follows an affinity law and is therefore parabolic in shape.
SC1 and SC2 in Fig1 are examples of resistance curves. The two different curves emerge when something about the resistance of your installation to air flow changes. For example, SC1 might be the resistance curve with a kitchen window open (less pressure required for the same amount of flow) and SC2 might occur with all windows close (it would take more pressure to achieve the same amount of flow).
For a given RPM, each fan has its own relationship between the flow it produces and the pressure that has to overcome. These are shown in Fig1 as curves N1 and N2. The RPM of N1 is higher than N2 and, accordingly, it produces more flow for the same amount of pressure.
The actual flow rate achieved is found at the intersection of your installation's resistance curve and your fan's curve. So, in our example, with the windows closed and the fan at the higher RPM, this is the intersection of N1 and SC2 indicated on the plot as "B". In HVAC engineering terminology, this intersection is called the "operating point".
Air flow of range hoods is specified at zero static pressure. In Fig1, this corresponds to the flow rate where N1 and N2 cross the x-axis. The specification provided by the manufacturer is not the air flow you will achieve once the fan is installed because there is no real-world situation where the static pressure encountered by the fan is zero.
You are unlikely to be able to obtain either a fan curve for a given range hood nor a resistance curve for your installation. This is not a practical problem in selecting a fan. That is because range hood fans are one of two general fan types each with a dramatically different capability.
Curves N1 and N2 are typical of a centrifugal fan in that they are able to create meaningful airflow despite static pressure encountered in the installation.
Fig2 shows a third fan curve A1 which is typical of an axial fan in that it stops producing any meaningful flow at very low static pressures.
Note that if you were to look at the manufacturer's specifications for the centrifugal fan that has curves N1 and N2 it would be in the same ballpark as the axial fan with curve A1.
But look what happens when these two fan types encounter the resistance of your system with the windows closed (SC1). The operating point of the centrifugal fan at the high RPM is shown at "B" while the operating point of the axial fan is shown at "D".
Note that the air flow of the axial fan when installed is only about 1/3 of the centrifugal fan despite the manufacturer's specifications for airflow being comparable.1
Note also that the airflow at the operating point is only about 1/4 of the manufacturer's specification for the axial fan, while it is more the 3/4 for the centrifugal fan.1
Remember, each cubic foot of air that you exhaust has to be made up somewhere else in the house. This might be an open window, your furnace's makeup path, the exhaust gases of a fireplace - yikes!, a backflowing bathroom exhaust fan, sewer gases sucked out of air admittance valves, etc. When you have an operating centrifugal range hood fan specified at several hundred or a thousand CFM, you should have a good source of make-up air. Otherwise, you might end up with unhealthy air from unexpected places being sucked into your home.
1 These ratios are for this particular hypothetical graph. They are meant to be instructive about the magnitude of the difference between actual and manufacturer's specified flow rates. By no means are these specific ratios generally applicable. What is generally applicable, however, is that the flow rate for axial range hood fans drops off significantly faster with static pressure than for centrifugal fans.
I disagree with BMitch as far as if the P-trap will come apart. (Possibly the first time we've disagreed?) The metal nut could not be where it is if the joint did not separate. The rest of his answer I agree is the easiest fix. However, if possible, physically cleaning the trap is preferable to a chemical approach. I'm assuming there is a slip fitting just out of the picture, just as there is in non-disposal side. By detaching the metal ring in the first photo and the unseen slip joint, the trap should be able to be removed.
Even without a slip joint, the pipe could be detached right at the disposal itself. This could actually be preferable as it would allow the P-trap to swivel, which may help in loosening the nut. Are you sure you are trying to turn the nut the correct direction? I'm not saying you don't know how to loosen fasteners. The direction depends on which piece the nut is threaded onto, which is not always clear in plumbing.
The curved shoulder of the nut tells me it is threaded onto the U-bend, so the nut is turned anti-clockwise when looking down at it. It's hard to tell by photos, but you appear to have decent access to the nut from the left side as it is below the pipe coming in from the other side. Even though the opposite trap may be in the way for fully turning a wrench, you seem to have enough room to place the wrench handle near the trap and pull right.
As for counter force, if pulling on the pipe itself isn't working, try a large screwdriver wedged in the inside of the U-bend. If you have the right wrench, the ring nut shouldn't offer a lot of resistance.
Best Answer
I wouldn't bother attempting to determine the existing rating, if for no other reason that it may not have been properly sized to begin with, and / or recommendations may have changed since then. Previous appliances may have been replaced or updated, or additional appliances may have been added. If it's a commercial kitchen there are likely to be applicable codes that may also have been changed since the original installation.
Better to start with the manufacturer(s) of the exhaust fan you are contemplating installing, and use their calculations. Most of them have online calculators that take into account the kitchen's volume, cooking appliance BTU, ducting considerations... etc.