Lighting – Help me identify the halogen recessed lighting

Thanks to Tester101's comment on my question I learned about ceramic high temperature wire nuts. I ended up using these: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0071NCSA4, for 18-14 gauge wire (the ones noted in my comment above were too large, they are for 12-10 gauge wire and didn't hold on to the wires properly).

I read somewhere that halogen lights reach temperatures above 300°C, so the plastic high temperature wire nuts mentioned above are not an option as they are only rated up to 150°C. The WAGO nuts I intended to use were also not appropriate as they are only rated up to 105°C.

While I was already in there, I also replaced the lamp holders with these: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055D2Y2E because the metal contacts in the existing ones were corroded.

The result looks like shown below and it works great, no more flickering or humming.

I have to say that these ceramic nuts are a bit iffy to install, probably because they don't have the metal coil inside like the regular plastic wire nuts do. In one instance I twisted too much, and the nut just cut off the wires completely. Another nut never got a good grip on the wires and fell off, so I had to toss it and use another one from the same batch. If somebody knows of a better type of high heat nut, perhaps one that does have the metal coil inside, feel free to comment.

Any number of things.

1. Most recessed light fixtures contain what is called a thermal cutout. These cut off the power to the light when the heat from the light exceeds the temperature rating of the fixture. They go bad.
2. Sockets go bad
3. Switches go bad
4. Loose wire connections inside the fixture.
5. Loose wire connections behind the switch.
6. Loose wire connections feeding the switch from another source.
7. It is not uncommon for a wire staple to penetrate the wire and over time the wire burns up inside the wall.