Lighting – Switch outlets to permanently hot. Switch to control new recessed lights

Conversion is too soft a word for what will have to be done, it is more than likely going to be a rework.

Somethings you need to figure out:

I would like to add a ceiling fan/light to one of the receptacles

A ceiling fan is far heavier than a recessed can light and thus needs additional support. The recessed light box will need to be replaced with a special box that braces itself into a ceiling joist or into a wooden block between two ceiling joists. Looking at how the recessed light box is being fastened into the ceiling will tell you how to do this.

and convert the other to a track light with its own light switch control.

This can be done but even in the best case scenario, you will need to run an additional cable from the switch gang box to one of the luminaires. This is of course assuming that the cable coming from the breaker is coming into the switch box.

It becomes more complicated if the power to the breaker is coming into one of the two lights. In this instance you would need to run a 3 wire and ground cable from the switch box to the light with the power line coming in:

NOTE: All of this of course is assuming that if one of these happens to be a fan/light combo, then the fan and light will be wired to turn on with a single switch, rather than separate switches for each function.

NOTE 2: This also assumes that you have already have a double gang box for installing two switches. If you do not have one then you will need to open up the wall and install one.

NOTE 3: The following diagrams assume equipment grounds are properly wired throughout.

To explain a bit:

Both travelers (Red and Black) must be continuous from the first to the second switch. Then from the second switch you would connect the non-traveler (now the switched wire) to each outlet.

If the outlets are along the path of the travelers then that means that each outlet will have 4 wires (+ground): the neutral, the switched wire and the 2 travelers.

Convention for the color codes in the switches are

• red and marked white = traveler.
• black = switched wire
• white = neutral.

current code also requires you to pull the neutral to the second switch (left capped off if not used) as future proofing for when you want to connect a timer or motion sensor.