designframingwindows
I've drawn up my sketch of floor plan I'll take to a house designer, but haven't added any windows yet. I'd like to have as much detail added to save designer time, but since I'm on a budget, I need help understanding what framing a window costs.
If I add a window here or there what does the extra framing cost, compared to a blank wall? Assume they're the load bearing exterior 2*6 walls, and like 4'*4' in size.
The wall seems to have 'full dimension' studs and the markings of old lath and plaster. I don't see plywood sheathing on the exterior walls. All in all I'm guessing that your house was built prior to WWII and is either 'post and beam' or 'balloon frame' construction, both of which are radically different in terms of structure and loads from modern techniques.
Here are wikipedia links for those techniques:
Can you post some photos that show the original framing for the original windows? I'm guessing the original construction did not include headers above the windows. Also I do not see any indication that jack studs were used in the original construction.
If your house is post and beam, then I don't think there are any significant structural issues.
If your house is balloon framed, this is how I would 'fix' it, with the jacks (red) and cripples (black) going through the floor to bear on what ever the existing old studs bear upon. The header (green) consists of two 2x10s sandwiching two rippings of 1/2" plywood (or whatever).
Based on the current state, achieving this is rather quick and simple. It does not require starting from scratch: the window and existing new 2xs do not need to be removed.
Unless the existing window is leaking, the sole criterion for judging better and worse options in this case is the likelihood of future bulk water infiltration.
The current installation is performing functionally and aesthetically as part of the building envelope. Breaching and patching the envelope is not a repair, and at best will only perform equally well with the current situation in regard to the prevention of bulk water infiltration.
From an insulation standpoint, the cost benefit analysis should factor thermal performance based on the weight of an empirically proven installation versus untested new construction and the requirement that the new construction must occur under less than ideal conditions (i.e. under a porch).
The existing window wasn't a problem a year ago. It isn't a problem now. It is unlikely to be a problem a year from now.
Best Answer
Where I live, 4x4 windows cost about $600 and another $300 for framing, header, etc. Trim around the opening varies from $100 - $200, depending on type of trim, stain or paint, etc.
Framing is not what is expensive in a house. It’s the finishes.
BTW, an “egress window” is required by Building Code in all bedrooms AND sleeping areas. It needs to open a certain amount and can’t be more than 42” - 44” or something like that off the floor. Check with Building Codes in your area.