framingremodeling
We are trying to put in an interior window between a room and an addition to the home that was added later. We cut out a hole in the drywall between the studs of the original room. However the studs of the addition are flush with the existing wall and are overlapping where the window will go by about 3 inches on each side. I was wondering what the best way to go about moving the studs would be. Would I need to put in a header?
Thanks for any help.
Edit: Adding a picture. 
Do you have any high powered magnets? like the rare earth neodynium magnets? If so you can probably rub one around the wall until it attaches to one of the nails in the studs. Or you can try thumping on the wall, a stud will sound alot less hollow versus empty drywall. That's how I've searched around in the past.
No, no and again NO. Not the way you suggest it, anyway.
This is an exterior wall. It is therefore a load bearing wall. Those two 2x4s (called jack studs) support the header over the window.
The weight of the rest of the house above the window is protected by the header, which in turn transfers the force to the two jack studs (as in they jack up the house) carry that weight to the underlying structure. If you remove one of the jack studs, too much force may be transferred to the other one, causing it to bow or even possibly fail. Either scenario translates to having weight of the wall above the house coming to rest on the window itself - and that is a BAD THING (TM).
If you wish to restructure for a larger opening properly, you must open the wall up further and relocate the king and jack studs, and install a longer (and possibly wider) header as well. Otherwise you can cause many tens of thousands of dollars of damage to your house.
Do not fiddle lightly with structure.
Best Answer
If you aren't changing the framing of the former exterior wall at all, you can basically do whatever is most convenient for the "wall" on the addition side. Flat studded walls are not going to be load bearing, so you don't need a header. The 2x4s on that side are basically only there to provide a place for the sheerock to attach. Basically you'll be putting in 2x4 furring strips around the hole. About the only thing that you should try to do is to attach whatever you put in to something solid (i.e. other framing) so the drywall around the window doesn't crack.