New Medicine Cabinet – Stud Removal

Most tub enclosures, like the one pictured, use a 1/12 to 2" nailing flange down each side and along the top. They are also designed to be used with tubs that have an anti siphon lip along the wall parameter of the tub. It sure looks like you have very little extra relief between edge of tub/tile to the actual corner. In order for the surround to fit snugly to the wall, it must be secured using this nailing flange. I think that you may have to build out the edge of that corner, thus reducing the opening size of the pocket door by an inch or two. This would not be very difficult, but would require some extra finishing work and some changes to door trim etc. If this clearance issue is the same on the opposite side of the tub, the same procedure may be necessary. Also, if you find that your tub does not have the anti siphon lip, extra attention will be needed to seal this joint. If and when you get to the point of tearing out the tile wall, be sure to insulate the stud wall and cover it with a good 4 to 6 mil vapor barrier, tuck tape any joints and the sides and top. This will provide not only water protection, but give you some degree of sound deadening to adjacent rooms. Use only MR (moisture resistant) or paperless drywall to finish off around your new surround. A completely different approach might be to cover the existing tile with a glue on surround kit. Assuming the tile is secure, after carefully cleaning all soap residues and prepping the surface with a dewaxing agent, (isopropyl alcohol for example) trowel on adhesive and install the kit. There are actually some nice surface mount enclosures out there, usually five piece. the box stores typically only have one or two choices and are pretty cheap looking. Check out a specialty kitchen and bath supplier for a much better selection.

There's a number of things you could do, this is one I would do in your situation. These fans are made to fit inside sheet metal ducts. Go ahead and get 2 lengths of this stuff. You will end up with a joint somewhere in the room, but then the duct can run fully through both walls and there's enough slop in the fit that precise cutting is not needed.

Because of the joint, you will need a hanger support that anchors into the ceiling, which I assume is concrete. You would need a hammer drill to make the hole necessary to insert an anchor stud to which the hanger can be attached.

This is not the most attractive thing in the world, but it can be painted so that it's not too objectionable. Painting exposed ductwork is done intentionally sometimes as a desirable (to some) "look". You could also construct a soffit box to contain the duct, you end up with a sort of stair step on the ceiling. Given the extra work for this, it's easier to like the painted duct look.

To fill in the holes, get some cement backer board and cut to the size of each opening. Also cut holes to fit the duct or fan. For the size involved, the boards can just be glued in place with construction adhesive. You can also glue in some backup cleats behind the boards to increase the glued surface area if you like. The boards should be recessed about 15mm from the wall surface. The remaining space is filled with portland cement plaster in 2 or 3 coats. It is an obvious patch, but it sort of matches the wall and would be hardly noticeable if the walls are to be painted.