I had an electrician come and change my outdoor outlet. He replaced it with a weatherproof GFI. It worked for 1 day and stopped working. I called him numerous times to come back but he would mot come. I got very frustrated and decided to see for my self what the problem was. It seems everything is fine as in the picture. My question is, from the picture is the wiring done properly ( I do not have any experience with this). IF yes I plane to purchase a new outlet and change it.
Outdoor gfi stopped working
gfcioutdoor
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The holes in the white part look like they might fit a G4-base halogen bulb:
It also looks like there is a label that's curling away from the side of the fixture in the lower photo; if so, it should have information on the maximum wattage that you can use.
The National Electric Code, these days, says garage receptacles are supposed to be protected by GFCI [NEC 210.8 (A)(2)]. That could be a GFCI outlet that is in the garage, or it could be a GFCI breaker in the panel. Anyway, if code was followed, that is. The branch circuit supplying the outlet in the garage is not supposed to supply outlets outside of the garage [NEC 210.52(G)(1)], but who knows, your garage could be tied to a GFCI outlet in another part of the house. Not very likely, but possibly. First, I would try checking to see if there is a GFCI receptacle in the garage. If there is, then make sure that it is reset. If it is a new GFCI outlet, then it may have something called Smart Lock, which means that you have to go back to the panel and turn the branch circuit off for about a minute, then turn it back on, then go out and reset the GFCI. My best guess, is that your problem has to do with a GFCI device that has tripped. It may be an outdoor receptacle that is causing this, even though there is not supposed to be outlets on that same branch circuit that are outside the garage.
Best Answer
From the wiring, it looks like the power comes from some location upstream (toward the electrical panel) and then also carries power downstream (to other receptacles - outside ones)? That is fairly normal for most receptacles, this is "chain style" wiring.
Now, GFCIs have both
LINEandLOADterminals which do different things. There is a piece of tape across theLOADterminals saying (in as many words) "DO NOT USE. For wizards only." Your electrican heeded that advice. All wires are on theLINEside.Now an electrician should be a wizard, but not all are, and also there are sometimes good reasons for not protecting downline loads. For instance there may be faulty wiring or appliance downstream that was causing the GFCI to trip, so he chose not to protect the downstream part.
He also used a quality GFCI that used "screw-and-clamp" type terminals, which allow 2 wires to go on one screw. If you buy regular receptacles, buy this kind - they are quite convenient and cost about $3 each (instead of 60 cents - no big).
Let's go back to the "chain" concept where receptacles are usually fed in a chain starting at the service panel. (A "tree" layout is also perfectly fine, where power splits off in 2+ directions.) Somewhere there'll be a receptacle before this one - i.e. one step closer to the panel. Or not. And another, or not. Etc. All the way back to the panel.
It's very likely your problem is actually in one of those. It's likely you'll find a loose wire. If you read that link about backstabs vs. screw-and-clamp, you'll know how to spot a backstab. Those are troublesome, so I replace them on sight. Twist the wire out gently but persistently, no need to cut and lose length.
I don't like leaving nice things out in the rain. With GFCIs outdoors, I prefer to find (or create) a receptacle location indoors, fit the GFCI there, and use "wizard" skills and the
LOADscrews to protect all the outdoor receptacles.