Plumbing – 90 degree turn in horizontal sink drain

Re-leading the joint isn't too hard. You will need a slug of lead, a ladle, yarning iron, packing iron, caulking irons, oakum, and torch. The process goes like this:

• Safety first! Wear thick leather gloves and avoid eating lead particles.
• Clean the old lead out
• Using a yarning iron, pack the oakum around the pipe. Repeat this operation until the hub is packed to about 1” from its top. Pack the oakum with a hammer and packing iron to make a bed for the molten lead.
• Using the plumber’s ladle, carefully pour the molten lead into the joint, as shown in Figure 30. Dip enough lead to fill the joint in one pouring. Allow a minute or two for the molten lead to harden and change incolor from royal blue to a dull grey. Usually, one pound of lead is melted for each inch of pipe size.
• Caulk the joint first using the outside caulking iron and then the inside caulk ing iron. The first four blows should be struck 90 degrees apart around the joint to set the pipe. Drive the lead down on the oakum and into contact with the spigot surface on one edge and the inner surface of the hub on the other. Use firm but light hammer blows.

The process isn't really hard at all for vertical pipe, but does require some specialized tools. If you have several of these joints in your house, it might be worth the investment!

Yarning irons:

Caulking Irons:

Inside/Outside Caulking Irons:

Ladle:

Horzontal Pour:

It actually isn't that bad of a place.

• Most basement bathrooms I do end up being in a corner.

• Builder planning on actual drain location is basically useless because they can't get in your head on what you will want in 5 years.

• Remember that what you are currently seeing will be covered.

• The corner location allows you to easily connect your sink drain without busting up more concrete for that. So you will bust up the concrete around this and connect your toilet and shower to a point where you have an acceptable pitch for each. Toilet will need to be relatively close and shower can be further away. Given that it is in the corner I can throw an adapter on the top of this and run the venting and the drain from sink through the walls. If this was in the middle of the room you would have an extra line that you would have to connect below grade for sure.

• Given this configuration and a "normalish" bathroom you could bust up concrete with just sledge hammer and have toilet, shower, and sink lines completed in a couple hours. After it gets inspected you could have this concreted the same day if you can line up your inspector right and if he trusts that you will have it completed (you would have cut the top off and framed beforehand if you want it done quicker).

So really if I am doing a bathroom this is a great place.

Edit: Since the OP added that they are installing a french drain on the perimeter my advice would to leave this in tact and work around it. There is no reason this should really affect a french drain system.