When drain water from one fixture comes back out another fixture, it means your blockage is beyond the point where those drains meet.
You need to get a good look at the topology of your waste plumbing, to get some ideas about where the blockage is. Clothes washer -> bathtub is a common symptom, because the clothes washer drains a lot of water up high (it has a pump) and the tub drain is down low.
Snaking down a drain is really hard, because of all the curves of the P-trap. If you're lucky, you have a clean-out somewhere, like under the house or behind a wall. Otherwise, you can try removing a P-trap to get the snake in, or removing a toilet. Removing a toilet is not very hard, but can be daunting.
We had a similar problem in this house. There were a few clean-outs accessible in the crawlspace, and our landlord used a hand-held snake in them, but didn't have much luck.
They hired a professional plumber. He pulled a toilet out and ran a huge snake down the drain (not one of the handheld units, but a huge, loud, floor-standing model heavy-duty cable). After running all 75' out, he borrowed another snake from his colleague, for 150' of snaking. This is a single-story house, on a 50'-wide lot, so the snake was well in to the street!
He said he pulled out a lot of roots. This is apparently common in older plumbing. They develop a small leak, and nearby plants grow after the nutrient-rich water, and find their way in to the pipe. It took him about 4 hours.
Plumbing is simple. There aren't a lot of rules to follow. Everything works in obvious ways. You don't need a lot of expensive, complicated tools, and if you do need something big, you can rent it. Anyone can fix plumbing.
But it can also be unpleasant. Screw-on connections may be rusted in place - hacksawing is often easier. There's the spectre of old poop and hair. Things may be difficult to reach - in a cabinet behind a sink basin or in a muddy crawlspace full of rat droppings.
If the job takes a few days, and you're unaccustomed to living without plumbing, it can be a trying time. Especially if there's a whole family in the house, and they aren't sympathetic. A pro will get the job done much faster, since they arrive with the right tools, parts, and experience.
There's a lot of instructions out there, on the internet, at the library, at the hardware store. If you decide to get your feet wet (get it? ha ha) then you will be able to find the information you need.
Blocked drains have no effect on the safety of your drinking water, if you don't contaminate the supply with the backed up drains.
Any remotely "modern" faucets (and other plumbing) are designed to prevent such contamination - they terminate above the level of the sink, so the end of the faucet cannot be submerged. Those which can be submerged or have a hose attached are outfitted with vacuum breakers to prevent backflow.
Even with a submerged faucet end (from an old faucet), there would ALSO have to be a loss of pressure on the city water to cause any backflow into the supply system.
Best Answer
Oh my. this trap isn't even an S trap, it's a rollarcoster trap. wow..funny, but not your issue. The reason for the P trap is to trap a little bit of water in the P where stop all air from moving up the pipe. You have a sewage backup issue.
It's very possible this trap also does not trap water if you take off the trap you can see for yourself if it's full of water or not. The suction that S type traps create pull all the water out of the trap like a siphon leaving no water left to block air flow. I have one, i need to get around to fixing. It definitely does not cause any backup.