pipeplumbingpvctools
The top of this pipe is gouged where it needs to seal with the new shower base.
I need to trim off a few inches from this pipe so I can glue on a clean piece. the hole is 10" square. The pipe diameter is 2 3/8".
What's the best tool I can use that will fit in the hole.
Follow up, I ended up using the dremel with a diamond disk. I used a hose clamp on the pipe to keep the cut straight. Lot of great suggestions but this tool I had so no need to run out to the store.
You've already accepted, but to properly fix this:
I'll assume it's all polyethylene pipe (typically used for well piping). The fitting also looks like nylon, which in my experience is easy to damage and often leaks. I much prefer PVC (which is typically gray) or brass.
Take everything apart, remove the elbow, and throw it away. Heat the end of the poly pipe with a torch, both around the outside, and a tiny bit on the inside. You want it to be warm, but not melted/squishy/burning. Put on two clamps, then put the fitting in, and then tighten down the clamps (about 1/4" apart, give or take). Repeat with the other end.
If you've never done this, you may want to practice on some scrap pipe first, especially if you don't have a lot of extra to work with. If you do melt the pipe, you need to cut the end back and remove the melted piece.
I wouldn't use the PVC pipe at all.
Here are some things to think about...
1) Splitting the PVC pipe in half will involve two saw kerfs that will make the re-mated halves not restore to original size.
2) PVC cement will not work well in trying to re-join the two pipe halves. That type of cement is meant to be used in tight lap type joints; not in rough butt type joints.
3) If you have to use the expanding foam you really should place the pipe parts in place and secured first and then inject the foam through one or more small holes through the pipe wall.
Overall I would suggest that you reconcept your approach to this and keep the lower portion of the walls as is but convert then to knee walls with height of maybe 40 inches. Temporarily support the beam within the current opening space. Then cut out the existing studs to produce knee wall framework. The top of this knee wall gets fitted with a good double 2x4 header. Trim the top of the knee wall with a flat trim board that is wider than the drywall on each side by some 1/2 to 3/4" and trim around the skirt of the board with a nice molding. Then set a partial turned 4x4 post on top the flat board and use it to support the beam. Finish out the top of the openings over to the side walls down to the bottom of the beam, band with drywall and finish. I think this would give you the better look and still open up the space perception. The shorter 4x4 type turned posts are much more reasonable in cost.
Excuse my somewhat less than elegant cut/paste/smear work with paint program but here is the general idea of what I am suggesting.
Best Answer
A Dremel rotary tool seems perfect for this. If you don't have one then this seems like a good chance to justify buying one as you will quickly find new uses for it. You can use it to cut from outside the pipe or even inside assuming the tool would fit. Just mark the circumference with a sharpie so that you can ensure a nice square cut. If it's not perfectly square then it's not the end of the world since the PVC coupling seats onto the pipe about an inch.
Not sure how far down you need to go but if you just need to fix a short imperfection then you can take a belt or oscillating sander to the top of it and remove the burrs with sandpaper.