Plumbing – How to tell if the bladder in the water tank is damaged

plumbing

I have a "Signature 2000 SR35-10S-01" water tank. Trying to determine if my pump is cycling too fast and if my tank my be to blame. The pump switch is set for a 40/60 pressure range. With a kitchen tap running at full, the pump goes on when the water pressure drops to 40 and it takes 20 secs to reach 60, and then pump stops. Then it takes about 1min/10 secs for the pressure to drop to 40 at which point the pump kicks back on. This of course repeats while the tap is open.

So pump on for 20 secs, pump off for 1 min/10 secs with a kitchen tap running. Is that considered too fast? What should be happening here if there's not a problem.

I checked the pressure of the "air cell" with a tire gauge at the schrader valve at the top of the tank (under the cover). After emptying the tank totally I get no pressure reading. If I turn the pump on and let the tank fill I get a pressure reading that matches the current water pressure (40-60).

One thing that makes me think the the "bladder" or "air cell" (they're the same thing right?) is damaged is that if I want to drain the tank of water completely it takes quit a bit of time to do so after the cutoff of 40psi is reached.

So what I think is happening is that I'm filling the whole tank up with water instead of filling it against an inflated bladder/air cell.

Any help/opinions on this greatly appreciated!

Best Answer

If you measure 0 psi when the tank is empty, it means the tank is not charged. Try adding air through the Schrader valve. If you can't get the pressure to increase and hold, the bladder is bad.

If you measure the pressure at the Schrader valve when the tank is connected to the plumbing, you'll always measure the water pressure in the plumbing. The tank must be isolated from the plumbing, to measure the air charge pressure.