"Cycling" in a pressure system is generally when the pump is turning on and off too quickly. Pressure systems are specifically designed so that the pump runs up to its maximum pressure, then you use water from the pressure tank, until it reaches the minimum pressure, at which point the pump turns back on and runs until it reaches the maximum.
The recommended minimum run-time for a 1-2HP pump is usually 2 minutes. How you get to that is based on the flow rate of the pump, and the size of the tank.
Based on your 150gallon tank, and not knowing your flow (in gallons per minute, GPM), based on this tool here's some example flows/times:
- 16GPM: 3 minutes
- 20GPM: 2.5 minutes
- 24GPM: 2 minutes
As you can see, the higher the flow rate, the shorter the pump will run.
In your case, it sounds like one zone is basically matching the flow rate of the pump (you could verify this by watching the pressure gauge while it's running, it should be fairly steady). While this may reduce pump starts, if you use water elsewhere at the same time, your pressure will drop and the pump will not be able to keep the pressure as high.
Now, the flow rate the pump puts out depends on a couple things, most importantly: the pump itself (and now many stages it has), and the depth to the water level. Each submersible pump will have a chart showing the flow rates at different depths, so you'll need to find your model and the water level to figure this out. Here's an example though, using a 2HP pump I found while running at 60psi (depth to water: flow rate):
- 20ft: 23.9 GPM
- 60ft: 22.7 GPM
- 100ft: 21.3 GPM
At first glance, this seems fine. My guess right now is that your first zone matches the flow rate of the pump, while the second zone is simply a lower flow rate than the pump. It's no problem, things are designed to work this way.
If you really want to reduce the cycling, you can hook up a bigger or a second pressure tank. This will give you more capacity, and so the pump will run longer, but it will also stay off longer while you use water stored in the tanks.
Now, if you had fast cycling (eg, <2 minutes run time) or "rapid cycling" (a couple seconds of runtime), then that would indicate a problem with the pressure tank. Normally the tank should be pre-pressurized at 2psi below your cut-off (low) pressure point - so in your case 43psi. To check this, you'll have to turn off your pump and let the water drain out (open a tap somewhere). You can top it up with a normal air compressor.
Best Answer
It appears that your indexing valve relies on downstream pressure for the valve to seat properly. Too many sprinklers reduces the pressure between the indexing valve and the sprinkler heads.
You ask:
The true answer is that the system should have been designed to provide adequate water volume delivered at the listed minimum operating pressure for those sprinklers. This is usually a calculation using static and flowing pressure readings with consideration of pipe diameter(s), lengths, and system configuration, accounting for friction loss.
In your case, I would suggest a simpler method: remove one sprinkler and cap the riser, then see if the indexing valve works. If not, continue to remove and cap sprinklers until it does. When it does, make sure the sprinklers are spraying correctly; just because there is enough back-pressure to allow the valve to operate does not mean your system is necessarily at the pressure required for optimum sprinkler head performance.
I would also suggest you look into a higher capacity pump, if you absolutely need to run more heads.