crawlspacedrainexteriorplumbing
My plumber just moved the laundry's washer drain location and this is the picture from the outside:
It was re-connect to the old drain pipe and go into crawl space.
My question is: Does it look right like that when the pipe is somewhat high on the ground and sticking out?
I mean some kids would have been not smart enough and step on it, right?
Is it code violation or no? The city is Tacoma, WA.
Your basic plan sounds workable. I assume your crawl space is adjacent to a full basement area? I have a couple of questions. Where does the existing drain tile system empty? Is there a difference in level between existing basement floor and footings of the crawl space? the answers to these questions may change my answer to you. But basically, adding a French drain or perimeter drain tile should help your situation. After your trench is dug, be sure to line it with several inches of gravel/crushed stone. Use perforated pipe with inlet holes or slots on only one half of the surface and be sure the slots are facing up when installed. Wrap the pipe in common landscape cloth before backfilling with crushed stone to prevent the drain pipe from filling with sediment. Lay another layer of cloth over the stone and complete the backfill with clean grave. Not sure how you plan to connect to the basement drain system, but that is another topic. This kind of work is always difficult, especially when working in a crawl space with limited head room. Good luck.
There are general guidelines for dealing with cuts in wood framing. For load bearing the basics are that you can notch 25% of the stud or 40% diameter for a hole.
Note: Notches should not be square - this provides a weak point in the stud. Half circle your notches if you can.
Now there are ways around this if you need a bigger notch or hole. In my area local inspectors will let you double up the studs and go 35%S and 60% respectively on load bearing walls. This doubling up is a one time allowance - I couldn't do a whole wall like that.
For electricity these guidelines are more than enough to run several lines through a wall. For plumbing though you might need to use different width boards (frame wall with 2x6) or use structural bracing.
Note that in the picture you see both wall plates (which offer little structural support) and bracing around the plumbing cut-outs. When you buy bracing for plumbing there will be guidelines on the use of the product. Follow those to figure out hole and notch sizing.
For this instance: If I read right you need a pipe to run perpendicular to the studs. The same rule applies. I we are talking 2x4 construction that means that you have 1.5 inches going across. Mean you can notch 3/8" which isn't much. There are several ways to handle this is you have a larger pipe (a heater shouldn't need much though) needing out.
You could notch a little out of each jack and king. Would be enough for a 1/2 inch pipe and I would feel perfectly fine about a half inch hole with a jack and king supporting each other.
You could rip the king out. Flip the king stud around sideways and install 2 kings and bore a hole through the center of it. If you needed a bigger hole you can use 2x6.
Buy a structural brace/shoe. With a properly installed shoe you can cut out the whole stud and have a ton of space to run things. Downside is they are expensive (relatively) and getting what you want isn't always easy.
I am sure there are other options but I would need to see a picture. I would also add if you want to get it passed by local municipality then I would just ask your inspector what he/she wants.
Best Answer
You need to have it redone and buried. Though it is unsightly, the real problem is not appearance but the exposure, not only to the elements but to human influence. It needs to be trenched and placed below freeze level.