plumbing
I’m building a house and I’m considering installing the supply lines myself with Uponor ProPEX. My floor plans are here: https://imgur.com/a/w9gaM.
Making use of Uponor's multi-port tee's, I came up with the following supply line plan here: https://i.imgur.com/9vXVoGd.png. Thick lines are 3/4" and thin lines are 1/2".
Am I going down the right path with this plan? What improvements could I make?
Are you sure its a scale build-up. Just a few things to note.
Here is just a shortlist of things to try first:
Scale build-up will occur where there is a rapid change in pressure or temparature (water heaters specifically), however, in your case any reduction valves or joints would be the first place to look.
There are actually many types of scale, and the removal technique should be suited to the type of scale, A Poor choice of removal method may actually promote rapid recurrence of scale. Scale Strength (Delicate, brittle, whiskers, crystal, rock like) , texture and purity (one mineral or multi-mineral) are all determining factors
The common way to clean scale of the pipes is an acid wash, sulfuric or hydrochloric acid is normally used, whereby the pipe is opened up just after the meter, and connected to a pump, then one tap is opened at the end of the line, and a bucket is placed, then the pump circulates acid through the pipe and flushes the system. The problem with this process is that the acid does etch the pipe and create craters for accelerated scale build-up in the future. The system must be flushed extremely well, since the spent acid solutions of scale are excellent incubators of fresh scale.
This answer may be inaccurate because I assume you have the most common type of shutoff valve, which is a seat and washer type (v. gate valve or ball valve) and an oval handle (called, I think, a wrench pad).
First, shut off the main valve, so if you do break a pipe you won't flood.
Try turning the handle with a wrench while maintaining a counter-rotating force on the valve body with another wrench. This usually works for me, although the valve remains stiff and sometimes I need two wrenches to close it again.
If that doesn't work, try removing the compression nut. Here also you want two wrenches, a proper size crescent wrench for the nut and a pipe wrench for the valve body. As the nut starts to move, turn the handle with it and remove the handle, stem, and nut together. Once you have them out you can separate them without stressing your pipes. You will probably find that the packing has stuck to the stem.
Of course if you do break the valve or any pipes then you will have to replace them but at least you tried the easy methods first.
Best Answer
I see your plan as basically sound and a good design. One additional thing you may consider. Many people use softened cold water for toilets, showers, clothes washers, dish washer and sinks except kitchen. Don't use softened water for drinking, cooking & ice machine for health reasons and not to hose bibs because of volume. The softened water is less hard on your fixtures and they will be easier to keep clean. Softened water in the shower is a little more pleasant and will extend the life of your soap products. And as long as you have spent the money for the softener, you may as well reap the full benefits. You will also add apparent value to your house with softened cold water throughout the house.