plumbingvalvewaterwater tankwater-filtration
I am trying to perform the tank sanitizing operation for the reverse osmosis system. One of the procedures involves detaching the tube from the valve, as shown in the first figure. The document does not specify how to do this? Would you like to let me know how to do this? Besides, the second figure shows the tank label and a blue component. I do not know what is that blue component used for? Thanks.
What do I need to do to fix this?
It would depend- if you are fairly certain that the overflow issue cause is the fill valve then that needs to be addressed, as you already seem to know.
Is there anything I can do to fix the current valve?
Maybe- if you are fairly handy you could probably disassemble the float valve and repair or replace the washers inside, but it might be easier to just replace the valve. One trick would be to carefully bend the float-ball rod a bit more to the downward position. This causes a bit more pressure against the bibb washer when the level rises and might make it seal; this is a temporary/cheap-ass fix.
Or will I need to buy something like this?
Your link is to a new float valve, which is fairly inexpensive and easy to replace; I recommend it as long as you ensure that the diameter (the hole it fits into) and threaded connection size/type are the same or are adaptable to your existing equipment.
Do I need to make sure the diameter of the pipe matches up with a new valve?
See previous comment above.
Does the height of the float need to be configurable on a new valve?
You can adjust the water level by using different length rods and bending them as needed.
When fitting a valve, will I need to use thread-seal tape?
Yes, on the threaded water connections to ensure a good seal.
Will I need to do anything to the bolts on the outside of the tank (pictured above)?
If you replace the float valve you will need to ensure a seal between the valve and the tank. This is usually accomplished with a rubber gasket between the nut and the tank, if the old gasket is soft and crappy you made need to get a new one (the new float valve may come with one).
Air probably collects in the lines when faucets are in use at differing flow rates and then one is turned on suddenly. For example consider the upper faucet operating at a small trickle and the lower faucet is off. Then the upper faucet is suddenly turned on full blast. The straight through flow to the lower faucet from the forked fitting could actually act like a suction on the upper pipe for a moment and probably take in a small gulp of air from the upper faucet.
If your fork in the piping looks like this:
You may want to try a fork that looks more like this:
. . .with the water flow from the tank entering as shown by the arrow. In this scheme there will be less possibility of the straight through flow suddenly starting creating a suction from above.
Best Answer
It's a quick connector. Water pressure actually pushes the locking mechanism to hold the tube in.
With the pressure completely relieved you can press the grey ring around the blue tube inward and at the same time pull the tube out.