Dishwashers can be either hardwired, or cord-and-plug connected. Check the owners manual of the unit you have, but in most cases the decision is left to the installer.
From a random Maytag Dishwasher Installation Guide (PDF)
In newer homes you'll commonly find a 125V NEMA 5-15R receptacle supplied by a 20 ampere circuit, used to supply a dishwasher and disposer. In this case, the receptacle is typically installed in the cabinet under the sink. If you don't have a receptacle under the sink, it's not likely that the dishwasher is cord-and-plug attached.
The National Electrical Code, specifies that all outlets must be accessible. Because of this, a receptacle installed in a location that requires the removal of the dishwasher is not code compliant. i.e. If you can't find where the dishwasher is plugged in, it's likely hardwired.
Checking the wiring for the disposal, might give you some clues as to how things are wired.
You might also find This answer useful, when trying to figure out what you can connect to the circuit.
Code that allows Garburators and dishwashers to be cord-and-plug-connected
National Electrical Code 2014
Article 422 Appliances
II. Installation
422.16 Flexible Cords.
(B) Specific Appliances.
(1) Electrically Operated Kitchen Waste Disposers. Electrically operated kitchen waste disposers shall be permitted to be cord-and-plug-connected with a flexible cord identified as suitable for the purpose in the installation instructions of the appliance manufacturer, where all of the following conditions are met:
(1) The flexible cord shall be terminated with a groundingtype attachment plug.
(2) The length of the cord shall not be less than 450 mm (18 in.) and not over 900 mm (36 in.).
(3) Receptacles shall be located to avoid physical damage to the flexible cord.
(4) The receptacle shall be accessible.
(2) Built-in Dishwashers and Trash Compactors. Built-in dishwashers and trash compactors shall be permitted to be cord-and-plug-connected with a flexible cord identified as suitable for the purpose in the installation instructions of the appliance manufacturer where all of the following conditions are met:
(1) The flexible cord shall be terminated with a grounding type attachment plug.
(2) The length of the cord shall be 0.9 m to 1.2 m (3 ft to 4 ft) measured from the face of the attachment plug to the plane of the rear of the appliance.
(3) Receptacles shall be located to avoid physical damage to the flexible cord.
(4) The receptacle shall be located in the space occupied by the appliance or adjacent thereto.
(5) The receptacle shall be accessible.
Yes, quite simple.
- use a Scotchbrite pad to shine up the copper tube so the ferrule ring has a clean, gouge free seating area
- slide the nut on
- slide the ferrule ring on
- push the copper tube into the fitting till it seats (fittings I've used have an internal stop at about 1/4" from ferrule seating area, double-check that the fitting is designed this way)
- push the ferrule ring into place against the fitting
- thread the nut on by hand (make sure the tube doesn't back out of the fitting and till nut is hand tight)
- tighten the nut just till the fitting is leak-free (about 1/2 turn from hand tight)
No plumber's goop, no teflon tape on assembly, the seal is formed by compressing the ferrule ring.
Where most people go wrong is to over-tighten the nut for the ferrule ring. The ferrule ring is trapped between two conical surfaces (nut and fitting) that force the ring to bite into the soft copper which both seals and forms a mechanical connection to keep the tube from backing out. Over-tightening causes the ring to dent the tubing, causing leaks and the inability to disassemble and reassemble the fitting as all the give is taken out of the ferrule ring and it cannot compress any more to seal effectively on the next reassembly.
Best Answer
You should be able to turn the body of the angle-stop if the nut is held firm with another wrench. if you turn the body and not the nut - It is less likely to damage the copper tube. Depending upon how tight the nut was set - will determine how deformed the copper pipe is. sometimes it is difficult to remove the ferrel.
You have so much oxidation on this valve - I would replace it.
Personally, I never install an appliance onto an old valve.
It looks like you have enough room to cut off the entire angle stop. Use a fine toothed metal blade and cut square - then deburr. A new multi angle stop can then be used with the matching outlets you need. The braided dish washer supply lines come in different configurations. I have found that many of the new dishwashers have a large threaded connector instead of the older 1/4" compression. check yours.
P.S. check inside your pipes for pitting. Often this oxidation can be a result of iron in water which destroys copper pipe.