Plumbing – replace the entire hose bib stem

There are about 5 steps to this and it's easier if you have a breakdown diagram.

The pictured hose bib is a Prier, probably a C-138

Two for the price of one, first section is how to replace the seat washer, second to repair stem leakage.

Note: The Handle, Stem, Stuffing Box, Packing Nut, Packing Nut Seal and Seat Washer all come out as one complete assembly on this faucet.

Replacing the Seat Washer, Faucet leaks when fully closed.

1. Find the water shutoff for the zone this faucet is in (mains for whole house if that's the only one) and shut the water supply off.

2. Turn the hose bib handle 1/4 turn open.

3. Loosen the Packing Nut (see illus below). As you turn it, the Stem will probably turn with it, if not, turn both Stem and Packing Nut in the same direction till the Stem/Packing Nut assembly comes out of the faucet body.

4. Remove the Seat Sealing Washer screw, and replace the washer.

5. Reverse operation for assembly.

If the faucet is leaking around the handle, gently tighten the Stuffing Box Nut 1/16-1/8 turn to compress the packing (what the stem seal is called). If it feels like you're tightening metal to metal, the packing has worn out and needs to be replaced.

Replacing the Packing, Faucet leaks around the stem when open.

1. Remove Handle Screw and Handle.

2. Remove Stuffing Box Nut (also called a Gland Nut).

3. Remove Packing and replace with new packing washer or graphited packing cord.

4. Replace Stuffing Box Nut (finger tight)

5. Replace Handle and Handle Screw.

6. Make sure you have a hose and closed nozzle attached to the hose bib.

7. Open faucet to pressurize hose and tighten Stuffing Box Nut down gently until the stem stops leaking.

How many splines are on the broach, how long is it and what's its diameter?

As according to faucetpartsplus.com, that's all you need to get started. They have an entire list for spline counts, listing them (below) to specific manufacturers. If you can't figure it out, they suggest sending them a photo, as they're very interested in selling you parts; manufacturers and their employes might not be so inclined. It's more than likely they'd only be able to refer you to who makes or has the replacement parts these days; not their prerogative.

Even though the link goes to an excellent array of pictures and contains most of the leading brands, I implore you to contact your local parts suppliers who are usually more than willing to help you.

You mentioned plumbing suppliers. Those are places you buy pipe and fancy toilets, you need a repair part supply house.

4 point square broach - Milwaukee, Royal Brass, Speakman, Sterling, American standard, Chicago, Concinnity, Gerber, Price Pfister, Symmons, Zurn
8 point broach - Briggs
12 point .335" broach - Crane Dialeze, Michigan Brass, Wolverine.
12 point .375" broach - Arrowhead, Artistic Brass, Harcraft, Glauber, Price Pfister, Scoville, Universal Brass.
12 point .39" broach - Bradley, Elkay, Fisher, Sears, Universal Rundle.
12 point .415" broach - Symmons.
12 point .485" broach - Crane, Symmons.
15 point broach - Santec, Savoy, Wolverine.
16 point .360" broach - Gerber, Sayco.
16 point .370" broach - Acme, American Standard Cadet & Colony, Barnes, Burlington, Central Brass, Concinnity, Eljer, Glauber, Harden, Kohler Trand, Milwaukee, Newport, Phylrich, Royal Brass, Scoville.
16 point .40" broach - Sterling.
17 point broach - American Brass, Mansfield, Midcor, Phoenix, Streamway.
18 point broach - Briggs, Indiana Brass, Union Brass.
20 point .285" broach - Broadway, Concinnity, Danfoss, Dornbracht, Eljer, Grohe, Jado, Kohler, Milwaukee, Paul.
20 point .415" broach - Broadway, Speakman, T & S Brass.
22 point .375" broach - American Standard old 3/8".
22 point .438" broach - American Standard current 7/16".
38 point broach - Import, Pegasus, Glacier Bay.
D Broach - Delta, Milwaukee, Universal Rundle, Valley.
Oval Broach - Delta, Moen, Mixet.
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