I have to drain the pressure tank when I replace the pressure switch. When I do this can I install a shut off valve just below the pressure switch? This would allow me to change it in future years and avoid draining the tank.
Plumbing – Replacing pressure switch for the water pump
plumbingpumpwell
Related Solutions
The Pressure gauge reading cycles between the pump cut-in and cut-out pressures. Sounds like the gauge is dead and permanently stuck at 24psi.
Often, the cut-in and cut-out pressures will be listed on the pressure switch and commonly are 20psi cut-in and 40psi cut-out. So your water pressure on the gauge will cycle between 20 and 40psi during water usage.
The tank has a built-in bladder that is pre-charged to 30psi when your gauge reading is 0psi (pump breaker turned off, water tank drained). There should be a faucet somewhere on the pump manifold system that allows you to drain the pressure tank of water so you can check the bladder air pressure.
To repair the gauge, I would switch the power to the pump off, drain the tank and simultaneously, replace the gauge and check the bladder pressure and top it off if needed. Then power the pump back up.
If there is a lever on the side of the pressure switch (image below), it is a low pressure cutout to prevent the pump from operating if the well runs dry. Pull it up till the pump turns on and hold till the pump stays on (about 10-15psi). With no low pressure cutout, just power the pump on and it will automatically do the rest.
Once you have a working gauge, you can start to determine whether it is a pump pressure supply issue, or if you have something more serious like a restriction in the house supply line or a leak.
Do you have any sort of sedimentation filter in your water system? Sounds like it may have clogged and if a screen, needs flushed or replaced if it's one of those string filters.
I don't think I have seen an over pressure valve on a well system so that would not concern me. Is PVC the right plumbing? Yes PVC is fine many homes have PVC on the cold water lines and cpvc on the hot water lines. Newer pressure tanks usually have a bladder that holds the water with the air charge on the outside of the bladder, these tanks are much smaller than the old diphram style tanks. My preference is to install the biggest tank that I have room for this allows for a longer draw down before the pump kicks in and reduces pump cycles this usually extends the life of the pump and reduces power consumption ( pumps draw 3-7 times there running value on startup so less starts saves $).the check valve may be in the pump or a foot valve at the bottom of the well so you may not see it but if there was not one in the system your tank would back flow as soon as the pump quit running so I doubt that is a problem.
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Best Answer
Here is the down side. The pressure switch, generally speaking has a very long life, many, many years. So they have to be renewed relatively seldom. And if you put an isolation valve between the switch and the main water line and it accidentally get turned off you really mess things up and cost yourself $1000's. Better to have to drain the tank down.