joistspipeplumbing
I have a bulkhead or soffit above our kitchen cabinets that is being removed to make way for taller ones that will go all the way to the ceiling. I encountered a vent pipe that will be in the way of the new cabinets:
So here's roughly what it looks like now (this is on an external wall):
And here's what I want:
Will it be feasible & acceptable to run this 2" pipe through several 2×10 joists in my 2 story home? Or, any other ideas?
where is the home? he most important question: Does it freeze in your attic? Even if it freezes - if the pipe is beneath ample insulation it is ok - Unless you are on an extended vacation - in which case must leave the heat on low enough to make sure the house envelope does not drop below freezing.
What you are calling a floor joist, appears to be much thicker than a 2x floor joist. Maybe like a 4x8 or something. So it's probably a "bearer" resting on the piers, which would explain why they are far apart. Typically you would then rest floor joists across those beams, (or use Simpson hangers if the floor needs to be nearly flush to the beams -- which is your situation).
This is typical ...
This is where you need to be with Simpson joist hangers:
Can you measure the thickness of the wood that you are calling a floor joist (which is really a bearer)? Also, that beam that is notched badly is not good (most likely). This would be the time to address that notch, which is fortunately very close to the wall. Can you measure the depth of the cut on that notch?
An easy way to do that would be to set a pier underneath the bearer so that no notched portion of the bearer is under stress.
Once you have addressed making sure that the bearer is properly supported, you can then hang joists between the two bearers you showed with joist hangers. Then you would put the subfloor and whatever choice of flooring you want on the joists.
Best Answer
https://www.familyhandyman.com/floor/how-to-drill-through-floor-joists/view-all
According to the above you could drill up to 3" diameter holes in the joists if you stay 2" away from the edges. You might or might not have to reroute some other pipes to accomplish this routing. This pipe appears to be ABS plastic drain or vent.
EDIT
Due to the recommendation in the link about staying 6" from any load bearing wall (pointed out in a comment) I withdraw my answer that this link supports the feasibility of rerouting the drain as described by the original poster. (I suppose this means that the 2x10" joist is, or could be, in compression within 6" of a load bearing wall. I was going by the widely noted rule to place penetrations in the outer thirds of the span of a joist.)
Maybe additional support to relieve compression would allow the penetrations as envisioned by the OP, but an engineer should be consulted.
EDIT2
So the rerouted pipe would have to turn laterally away from the load bearing wall so that the 3" holes would be more than 6" away from the wall.