Seen a lot of answers about bad saddle valves, and I was just going to use a threaded cap. I bought this cap – Anderson Metals 56108 Brass Pipe Fitting, Cap, 1/4" NPT Female Pipe. Had the teflon tape an was ready to go but when I tried the cap it was to big? Why did it not fit? Is this cap different than a 1/4 inch threaded compression cap? Please advise
Plumbing – saddle valve cap not fitting
plumbing
Related Solutions
My favorite pipe thread sealer is RectorSeal #5. Here's a link. I see according to its datasheet that its rated for steam pipes. You might have to let it dry a little while before pressuring, but after that its good for 2600 psi.
I think kitchen sinks are 3/8" (but I can never remember). So you'll want a 3/8" female, 1/4" male, 3/8" male tee. You should be able to find one at the local big box, or hardware store.
Something like this
- Shut off the water using the shutoff valve.
- Remove the existing supply line.
- Attach the tee where the supply line used to be.
- Connect the sink supply to the 3/8" male outlet on the tee.
- Connect the refrigerator supply to the 1/4" outlet on the tee.
NOTE: Use your preferred pipe dope method (tape or goop), however, since it's a brass fitting dope should not be required.
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Best Answer
That saddle valve discharge is not 1/4" pipe thread but instead is a 1/4" OD compression fitting. If you want to cap that fitting you need to purchase a cap for the 1/4" OD compression fitting. One thing to remember, not only can the valve leak but the rubber washer that seals the saddle to copper tubing will harden with time and could also fail. I hated saddle valves as a cheap install and instead used a "fitting by 1/4" pipe bushing" to make the connection or solder in a ball valve in standard copper and reduce it's discharge to 1/4" OD copper. my 2 cents