Plumbing – Sewer Line Opening – Makeshift Vent or Rodents

Most crawl spaces are vented if they have an earth floor or are prone to moisture. If you insulate between the floor joists with a moisture, mold and vermin resistant insulation (foam as we discussed before) you would still want some ventilation. The only time I would seal the exterior walls would be if I also used a pretty darn water tight moisture barrier over the floor, tuck taped to the knee wall at the bottom of the joists. You would be creating a dry cell and blocking movement of cold air through and under the house. This is typically done with a rubber/neoprene type compound sheet commercially, but can be done effectively with a couple of layers of good 6 mil poly. This poly is avail at Lowe's, HD, etc. in 10 and 20 foot wide rolls, 25 to 100 foot in length. You can use Tyvek tape to seal the seams and around posts etc. Leave yourself a way to enter the space to check humidity levels occasionally for reassurance.

It sounds like you already have a couple of experts working with you. Without seeing the proposed new space, I can only speak to a couple of your concerns.

There is no easy way to install a sub slab vapor barrier without removing the old slab. You do not want to sandwich plastic between the old and new concrete if you are going to only put in an inch or so of concrete to level the space. I'm sure your contractor will prep the old slab by cleaning etc to assure a good bond with the new concrete. One or two inches of new concrete should be fine, especially in a space with low, lightweight traffic.

I see no reason for a drain in this area unless excessive leakage or standing water is a potential problem.

If radon mitigation is required, the collection pipes should be installed under the existing slab via cutting trenches and tied into your venting before you pour the new concrete. Again, your radon contractor who can see the space should be able to advise you properly and make all the connections to your existing system.