Sorry to hear about your "odor" problem. Maybe there is a local public fountain you can take a dip into!!!
However, the problems you describe are fairly common, but may be tricky to isolate. Let's try some basics:
Relieve the pressure from the bladder completely. Let the well pump fill the tank completely and bleed any air from the system using the faucets with the pump running. Again, with the tank full of water, close all outlets and charge up the bladder to about 60PSI. Most systems work fine between 45 to 65 PSI. Anything over 70 is pushing it. The tank needs to be charged when full, not empty.
Monitor the pressure as you draw water. Does the pump kick on constantly when the pressure reaches the low limit, and off at the high limit? This will help tell if the regulator is working properly.
Is there any pulsating water pressure at the faucets?
When you are sure you have a full tank, no air in the system, is your second floor water flow ample when the tank is reading 60psi?
There are a few "if's" here. Depending on how the pump behaves and the pressure responds, you have to determine if the problem is with the pump and volume of water being delivered to the tank, or if the pressure regulator is properly operating.
If you are still seeing any pulsating water pressure at the taps, then the bladder is water logged again. If the bladder pressure drops too quickly, then most likely the volume of water from the pump is low. The pressure should remain fairly constant at the tank if all the functions of the pump and regulator are working properly. Good Luck
Water pressure drops come from two sources:
1) A constriction in the line upstream, limiting the maximum inflow you can get.
2) More demand on the line, producing more outflow than the inflow can fully pressurize.
If a sprinkler zone is larger (serves too many heads), or if more zones are active at once, it will demand more water. Dividing the zone could be one solution.
If a sprinkler zone's pipe is kinked or otherwise obstructed, it may not be able to deliver as much water as is needed to fully pressurize the line.
If running the sprinklers reduces pressure at the sink, the point limiting that is going to be upstream of both, and you're probably also seeing pressure drops at the sink when you flush a toilet or run a bath. You can check for restrictions working back toward the source (valves not fully open, for example), but if the shared flow limit is what's coming into the foundation...
Best Answer
Heat and cold cause air expansion and contraction if your system is wet it may have a relief valve bumping excess pressure down a drain, If it is a dry system I would make sure the flapper at the wet/dry division is not leaking by this can cause all kinds of trouble but these are usually on large systems, smaller home health care systems I have experience with are wet and as the water in the plumbing heats the relief vents Down a drain. This is much better than a over pressure that starts leaking in the living space.