Plumbing – Water shutoff valve for refrigerator

plumbingrefrigeratorshutoffvalvewater

We need a shutoff valve for our refrigerator. We live in California. We have a copper water line to the fridge. My questions are:

  1. The line kit included a small brass shut off valve. The installer said that we need a box shut off valve installed into the drywall. Are we supposed to have both of them?

  2. The icemaker shut off valves sold at Lowes differ by the type of connection: PEX, CPVC x Comp, sweat, etc. In California, do copper lines to the fridge need to be changed to PEX? What are those other types of connection?

Best Answer

If there's a shutoff requirement a single valve will satisfy it. There's no need to use two. The kind that installs in a box in the wall behind the fridge are a little more intensive to retrofit but they're convenient to use. I can't speak to whether you might have state or local codes that require this in-wall style -- and I'll wager the Best Buy delivery crew aren't trained on the subject any better. In most places a valve at the supply end of the tube is a fine an alternative to the recessed box behind the fridge.

Line kits often include a self-piercing saddle valve. It's a pair of half-round straps, screws to squeeze them together, a 'stinger' on the inside which pierces through existing plumbing, and a small pin as a handle to operate the valve. They're easy to install but they're always junk. They restrict the flow and they eventually leak at the site and/or the valve won't close fully when you need it most. Use this valve only as a last resort. typical saddle valve

It's much better to have a normal valve installed appropriate to the kind of plumbing in your home, then adapt it down to the 1/4" tube for the fridge.