I'd use a small tubing cutter to cut tidy/clean ends on both ends of the 1/4" copper pipe ...
![http://www.plumbinghelp.ca/images/DSCN1475.JPG](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2IZo3.jpg)
... cutting off whatever portions of the 1/4" copper pipe are kinked or deformed. I'd then slip on a compression fitting called a 'union' ...
![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Pl2t.jpg)
... which requires tightening with a pair of wrenches. Wikipedia has a general article on compression fittings here. You-tube hosts a concise 3 minute how-to video regarding installing compression fittings on plastic or copper pipe. The copper tubing portion of the demo starts at 1:45 ...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQGL8MBLlaE
Small tubing cutters such as the one pictured above will cut diameters 1/4", 1/2" and 3/4" and anything in between. The small size of that cutter design makes it excellent for tight confines. It would be the first one I'd buy for my tool box. You could also use a medium size cutter, such as the one used in this 90 second tutorial ...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nLB3MomrXd0
The small cutter works in the same way. There are two main points to keep in mind when using either of these tubing cutters ...
1) Tighten the cutter only a little bit each time, making a number of light scores around the pipe instead of several deep ones.
2) The cutter wheel needs to continually track in the previous score, so keep a close eye on the score and make sure the score is not spiraling along the length of the 1/4" copper pipe, which can happen if the pipe is bent or deformed in the area where the cutter is being used.
After the cuts are completed, the cut ends of the 1/4" pipe need to be very close to circular (for example, not deformed into an oval). If they are not circular, then even if the ferrules can be forced onto the 1/4" copper pipe, the fitting will leak. If the ferrules do not slip on easily, it might be due to the ends of the 1/4" pipe being out-of-round, or (unlikely) due to defective ferrules. Using a tubing cutter will help ensure the cut ends of the 1/4" copper pipe are circular.
Alternatively, a hacksaw (or similar) can be used to cut clean ends on the 1/4" pipe. This will likely result in ends with sharp edges and a burr. Remove these with sandpaper. Clean ends will allow the ferrules slip on without gauging, which would lead to a leak. A fine-toothed file can be used instead of sandpaper, but the copper dust/shavings will most likely clog the teeth of the file.
Here is a 7 minute how-to video from England regarding leaks at compression fittings:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aez4ctMtbuI
One of these ironic things? ("American" Valve - Made in Taiwan...)
![coupling](https://i.stack.imgur.com/8p835.jpg)
You should probably try to smooth the pipe out more - a lot can be done with a narrow strip of coarse sandpaper,
wrapped around the pipe so you can "saw" it back and forth. You can also try really cranking on the hose clamps - if you're only using a screwdriver, you haven't really hit what they can do (but you have to maintain some sense of proportion once you switch to using a socket and ratchet on them, or you'll find the breaking point.)
For sheer desperation, I'm not sure if silicone or beeswax (from a toilet seal ring, of course) would be the better desperation move. With kitchen waste it could get too hot for beeswax.
Best Answer
I would inspect the entire property for more such pipe and replace any that was found. That's almost certainly a manufacturing defect and likely to be pending failure wherever that batch of pipe was used.
That is not a natural crack, nor a corrosion crack, it's too straight and uniform.
Typical "natural" cracks look like:
Possible ways it could have formed:
Then after some years of thermal cycles and possibly mild corrosion, a crack formed and rapidly propagated along the rest of the weak line.