I have 3/4" copper pipe outdoors (backyard, above ground), and I am adding a couple tee fittings to branch to a different area. I am having a hell of a time getting the solder to melt. My next move is to skip solder and use sharkbite (expensive). Any ideas on why this is so difficult? Even if the pipe I'm working is removed from the system (thus, absolutely no water inside) still no luck.
- I don't know the age of the pipe.
- I'm using
- Benzomatic propane (not mapp).
- Benzomatic lead free plumbing silver bearing solid wire solder
- Benzomatic lead free plumbing water soluble plumbing flux
- The old pipes are green (oxidation), but I clean the joints with wire brush.
- Fittings are brand new.
Edit: Yes, I'm heating the pipe joint and (trying) to apply solder on opposite side of heat. My first solder attempt a year ago was successful, main difference is indoor vs outdoor.
Best Answer
The pipe must be cleaned until it is bright. A wire brush may not do the job well enough; I use a cloth-backed sand paper (aka emery cloth) for the job. It is about 1.5 inches wide and comes on a roll several feet long. I'm not a plumber but I use it routinely -- for your occasional or one-time use regular paper-backed sand paper would be fine as well. Maybe 80 grit or so.
Overheating the pipe is every bit as troublesome as underheating the pipe. If it gets overheated you may need to let it cool, then sand it and attempt again.
Make sure the socket of the fitting is clean too (and also not previously overheated). These are harder to clean well!
Open the gas valve on the torch so there's plenty of flame. It should make a good bit of noise and throw a tight blue cone of flame maybe 3-4 inches long.
I like to straighten out about 4 inches of solder from the roll, apply flux to both parts of the joint, assemble, and then hold the flame steady on one side of the pipe while occasionally touching the tip of the solder to the opposite side of the pipe. In other words, keep the solder away from direct exposure to the flame. When the pipe is hot enough to melt the solder remove the flame and continue applying droplets of solder into the joint. Add more heat only if the solder stops flowing before it has wicked all the way around the joint.
The truth is I've never used MAPP. Propane has always worked just fine for me. The torch head may make a difference though. I use a Victor TurboTorch similar to below. Been a long time since I watched a Bernzomatic torch burning but I think the TurboTorch makes a wider/larger flame. (image credit: manufacturer, www.esabna.com)