plumbingpoolwater-pressure
I have jimmied up a pool heater from an idea on YouTube, but just expanded it. I have a water line of 2" PVC, piped down to 1/2" copper, so it can run through a coil, then increased back to 2" PVC, and re-connected with the original pool hose of 2".
Will this keep the constant pressure that it starts with, or will I lose water pressure. It seems to have lost pressure, trying to get back into the 2" inch hose. Any suggestions?
Sorry to hear about your "odor" problem. Maybe there is a local public fountain you can take a dip into!!!
However, the problems you describe are fairly common, but may be tricky to isolate. Let's try some basics: Relieve the pressure from the bladder completely. Let the well pump fill the tank completely and bleed any air from the system using the faucets with the pump running. Again, with the tank full of water, close all outlets and charge up the bladder to about 60PSI. Most systems work fine between 45 to 65 PSI. Anything over 70 is pushing it. The tank needs to be charged when full, not empty. Monitor the pressure as you draw water. Does the pump kick on constantly when the pressure reaches the low limit, and off at the high limit? This will help tell if the regulator is working properly.
Is there any pulsating water pressure at the faucets?
When you are sure you have a full tank, no air in the system, is your second floor water flow ample when the tank is reading 60psi?
There are a few "if's" here. Depending on how the pump behaves and the pressure responds, you have to determine if the problem is with the pump and volume of water being delivered to the tank, or if the pressure regulator is properly operating.
If you are still seeing any pulsating water pressure at the taps, then the bladder is water logged again. If the bladder pressure drops too quickly, then most likely the volume of water from the pump is low. The pressure should remain fairly constant at the tank if all the functions of the pump and regulator are working properly. Good Luck
I agree with the comment in that its surprising the copper pipe would conduct enough heat to freeze the downstream pipe, are you sure there's not a draft or something like that?
Your idea to isolate the pipe seems relatively sound though. You would likely want to use PEX instead of PVC. PEX normally requires a special tool to crimp the connectors, so I would recommend using a SharkBite push-in coupling fitting to connect the PEX to the copper and vise versa as these don't require any special tools to install.
From http://www.sharkbite.com/product/couplings/
SharkBite is the Push-Fit connection system that is really taking hold. It’s the easiest way to join copper, CPVC or PEX pipe in any combination with no soldering, clamps, unions or glue. Just insert the pipe and the stainless steel teeth bite down and grip tight, while a specially formulated O-ring compresses to create a perfect seal.
I don't have any affiliation with SharkBite, they are just a well known brand of push-in fittings. Your local store might have other brands too
Best Answer
I believe the pressure loss depends on the flow rate. There will be some loss of pressure.
To avoid it you need 2" copper pipe or multiple parallel 1/2" pipes (probably more than 16).