Pool liner loose after hard rainfall – wait for it to re-seat itself

From my personal and professional experience with Saltwater Pools with "Salt Chlorine Generators" on them has always been positive. I will bullet point some information to help you ensure it's a positive experience:

Correct Installation: The Salt Chlorinator Systems have 2 main parts.

• A "Salt Chlorine Generator Cell" that is spliced into the return side of the PVC usually directly after your filter or heater. (Important Note: Ensure that the salt cell is installed as the last place in the PVC that returns to the pool. If you install it say before a heater or before the filter, then when the salt cell converts the salt to chlorine, you will have a high concentration of fresh chlorine (which is very corrosive). Chlorine is basically double the strength of Bleach and is used in your pool to sanitize and eat up/destroy organic matter in your pool. Remember, that single cell has to create enough chlorine to sanitize and be useful in a, say, average pool of 15,000 gallons. So the chlorine level directly after the cell is well over a "readable" level (20PPM+) but once it gets to your pool, it instantly dilutes to a more preferred level of 3 PPM - 5 PPM.
• A "Salt Generator Control Box" is usually installed by your pool equipment on the wall and is connected to your pool's power source (so that it only runs when your pool is running and circulating water) and it also connects to your "Salt Chlorine Generator Cell" (which is what provides the electrical power to turn the salt into chlorine. There is also usually a built-in flow meter to ensure that there is water flowing at a minimum rate to protect the system).
• EXPERT TIP - A final part of the installation is not included with your purchase of a Salt Chlorine Generator system for your pool, but I recommend it for ALL pools that have some type of automatic chlorinator on them. That part is a Standard PVC Check Valve, which you have installed Just Before the Salt Cell. A Check Valve is a simple PVC adapter you can get at any local hardware/plumbing store (Home Depot/Lowes) for $1 and what it does is allows water to only flow ONE WAY through the valve; if water tries to flow the wrong way the check valve stops the water. This is important for many reasons but, on this topic, this will ensure that when your pool equipment turns off each day, the Very Concentrated Chlorine water made by the Salt Cell does not "drain back into your pool heater, filter, pump, etc. and basically sit there and corrode your o-rings, gaskets, etc.... I've seen the damage countless times from this. You can Google "PVC Check Valve" to understand it more if you want, but it's a very simple part to be installed during installation of the salt chlorine cell and should only be at most $10 extra for installation & the check valve. If you're doing a personal install, pool equipment uses 1.5" or 2" PVC pipe; ensure you know which you have to get a check valve that fits.

Salt Chlorine Generator Facts: These simple facts that compare the amount of salt your pool will require for a salt chlorine generator vs a tear from a human eye vs Ocean Salt Water.

• The average Salt Chlorine Generator requires 3,000 PPM of salt in your pool to operate correctly (Check instructions for exact amount of the system you buy).

• Everyone has probably cried enough before to get a tear on your lips or in your mouth. A human tear normally has 9,000 PPM of salt

• The Salt Water from the Ocean such as the Gulf of Mexico has 20,000 PPM of salt

We sell Thousands of Salt Chlorine Generators A Year All Over The World. To this day, I'm not aware of ONE single customer who was unhappy and wanted a refund after they installed it. In my last house, I had a pool built and I used a salt chlorine generator from day one. I can say that the 3,000 PPM of Salt Required in the pool makes the pool water feel "soft" on your skin vs the normal "dry" feeling from a liquid/powder chlorine pool. I also only had to clean the cell 2 times in the 8 years I lived there and it ran every day without any other issues.

Common Issues:

1. Ensure You Clean Your Filter Often - There will be times that you may see that your salt chlorine generator isn't on due to "flow" (some systems will just turn off). Always check and clean your filter as a dirty/old filter will slow down the water flow enough to make your salt system not work. Do this before dishing out $300+ for a new "Salt Cell".
2. Clean Your Cell* - Basically every pool requires calcium for proper water balance. This calcium with time will start to collect on the salt cell. When you remove the salt cell (which should be installed on **Union PVC Connectors so you can easily unscrew the salt cell for cleaning vs having to have a pool repair tech out to cut into your PVC again) use the manufacturer's directions on cleaning your cell. To clean the salt cell on my pool required a mixture of about 70% water and 30% Muriatic Acid in a bucket in which you place your cell and you will start to see it bubble and foam, which is the acid eating the calcium deposits off the metal blades of the cell. EXPERT WARNING - Muriatic Acid is VERY dangerous and if poured onto concrete or your body it will eat a hole right through it, so be very careful when handling Muriatic Acid. EXPERT WARNING - Muriatic Acid if mixed with Chlorine creates "Mustard Gas" and is deadly if breathed in. So don't think of adding chlorine to the cleaning bucket like I've heard of people recommending before.

Well that's my 2 cents and facts I know from selling tens of thousands of salt chlorine generators over the past 10 years online and it's still one of our top selling product lines.

Happy Swimming!

Having done some plaster, but only on interior walls (not drywall, real plaster), and some finish concrete and masonry work, I have to say that the most useful thing you can do is build yourself some sample surfaces and try to learn there. Actually hardened materials are a major pain to remove, and will look awful if you do a poor job.

Remember that a great deal of the strength in the surface comes from the chemical reactions (including oxidation) in the materials. Therefore, you really need to have the moisture levels right. A big challenge when plastering is making sure that the underlying layer doesn't suck the water out of your mix, which will cause the layer you're putting on to fail (because it's too dry when setting up). Mist the surface carefully: too wet is just as bad as too dry. (Ask me how I know. Go ahead, ask ;-))

The remark from DMoore is also right: a smooth appearance over the area is quite important. Building some guides that allow you to check for high and low spots when you're still wet will make your life easier. I haven't done anything nearly as large as a pool, but this made my life much easier in large sections of wall that needed to be repaired in a historic building.

I watched the old-timey pros do some plaster over a brick wall in my last house, and it appears to me that the trick for seams is to have the assistant mixing batches to time thing just so. That way, the edge of the work you're just finishing is still fresh when the new mix shows up, and you never really have a definite seam (this is the "hot joins" bit you mention). Of course, to make this work you basically have to do the whole job in one go. Hard to do, if it's big enough. If you're doing this for the first time, I think planning to do this with only two of you will result in not being able to do that.

Do not neglect keeping the work clean as you go. You can make a pretty good job look like total crap by having stray bits of mess hanging around, and hardened Portland cement is very hard to clean up. (You can do it with polishing and so on, but it's way better to get as clean as close as possible in the first place.)

If you can find some smallish and nice finish-concrete or finish-plaster problem to try doing first, your hand and eye with the trowels will be way better when you get to this much bigger job. If you can learn to love wavy bits in your finished work, then learning as you go might be ok. But if you can try to learn in some smaller jobs first, I bet your life will be better. I wish I could go back in time and re-do the first ceiling re-plaster I did, because I could see how I got better as I went across the ceiling (I was out of time because my wife wanted me to cook something rather than butter the ceiling some more!).

Good luck.