I am wanting to add a divider wall in my garage to separate a work space from the parking area. I got a great deal on a 10 foot wide by 7 foot tall roll-up door. I framed my basement when finishing it, but nothing this wide. All documentation I have found on header sizing refers to load-bearing walls. This one will be self-sufficient and attached to existing walls and the existing ceiling. Any advice on how large the header need to be and how many jack studs?
Proper header size for a 10 foot span, non load-bearing wall
framing
Related Solutions
International Residential Code 2012
Chapter 6 Wall Construction
Section R602 Wood Wall Framing
R602.7 Headers. For header spans see Tables R502.5(1) and R502.5(2).
So if you're on the top floor, you can use 2 2x4's (unless the building is 36' wide, in which case you'll need 2 2x6's). If you have a floor above, you'll need 2 2x6's (unless the building is 36' wide, in which case you'll need 2 2x8's).
Not critical at all. There are best practices. Like making sure corners have stud surface on both sides, making all studs 16 on center, make all studs plumb. Does it matter? No. Do inspectors care? No. Now I wouldn't suggest making your studs further than 16 inches but back in the day they were generally 24 for basements. I have seen people do them at 12. The only concern that you should have is when you drill the drywall in, is the stud in question going to cause issues...
But if it were me I would just whack it back in place.
Note: That my answer here is given that it is a non-loadbearing basement wall. If the wall was a loadbearing wall or attached to a loadbearing wall it would differ a bit. In a basement the framing is just space to put insulation, wires, pipes, and an attachment point for drywall.
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Best Answer
You don't need a header, except to provide a "space" for your new overhead door to roll-up into. A header is to hold something "up". This is non-bearing, so you could use studs to create the space down from the roof (or ceiling) for the roll-up door to roll-up into. The load that you need to resist is the horizontal force on the "wall" above the new door. I'd use a double 2x6 laid flat at the head of the opening. (The door is not supported by the "header" either.)
I'd use 2-2x4 "jack studs"...just for stiffness on each side of the opening. (Technically, I guess they're not "jack studs".)