No, it is not a bearing wall, but there is a "double stud" (post) required in the wall line to support the "beam that supports the roof" that is in the second floor exterior wall. Very unusual.
This post (double stud) is important because it's noted on the second floor plan too. So, the double stud is to extend up to the roof level and align with the double stud on the first floor level. We don't create a separate structural system (like this double stud system / beam system) we just "up-size" the floor joists to support the second floor loading and the second floor exterior wall load and whatever roof loads too.
First, you'll notice there are parallel walls on each side of the kitchen and dining that align with the second floor (although the second floor is slightly narrower.) This allows all the framing to span from wall to wall and transfer the loads to the foundation. The wall between the kitchen / dining runs perpendicular to the floor joists and roof trusses so it will not be a bearing wall, but has a "double stud" note in it. So, you can remove the WALL but not the POST (double stud).
Second, if you look close, you'll see notes and arrows on the drawings that refer to, "300 x 50 joists". This refers to the size of the joists and the direction the joists are to span. (We Americans never learned the metric system.) As you can see, the floor joists rests on the walls perpendicular to the kitchen / dining wall. So, again, it's not a bearing wall.
Also, it is not a "shear wall". A shear wall is used to keep the building "stiff" and not allow the structure to sway or turn into a parallelogram. I live in a high wind area, as I suspect you do too, and I'm very interested in horizontal thrusts on buildings as well as vertical loads.
You can remove this wall (but not the double stud) and sleep well at nights or not worry when you're out windsurfing.
Note: If you look close at the North East elevation, you'll notice there is no double studs required on the left side of the drawing, only on the right side. Yet, it has the same identical roof structure. (Hmmm...unless there is a vaulted ceiling on the right side. Is there?)
That wall is supporting ceiling joists so you can't simply remove it.
It's not carrying any roof or floor load as far as I can tell, so luckily no significant loads. If you want to clear span 13', use a 2 ply 1-3/4" x 9-1/2" 2.0E LVL. 1.55E LSL would be fine too, but that can be hard to find sometimes.
Typically remodelers try to put these types of beams up in the ceiling so they don't have to have a dropped beam with a soffit. They put the beam on top of the ceiling joists and use metal straps or strap hangers to carry each ceiling joist from above. The 2x6 ceiling joists will typically overlap a bit at the wall, so a 3" wide hanger every 16" can usually support both ceiling joists at the same time. It's a goofy way to do it, but each hanger would be carrying 200 lbs max so it could technically be done with just SDS screws but it's too much work to explain that to an inspector. They use hangers just to pass inspection easier.
Best Answer
I had a similar situation recently and here's what I did. Disclaimer-there might be better ways to do this and I suggest you wait on more answers or comments.
I created a temporary header near the doorway using 6x6's on the ceiling and floor, with bottle jacks and studs to hold the system up. I used foam board on the ceiling to not damage the drywall finish. Once everything is in place I slowly cranked up each bottle jack a little at a time until I could tell I was getting good pressure on the ceiling. If you go this route, you need to verify which way the floor and ceiling joists run, so that you can distribute the load. If you have trusses, make sure you put this on the side of the wall that keeps it under the truss. You will need someone to help get you get this set up, it's difficult to hold everything in place while working the bottle jacks.