bathroomdiverterspout
I need to replace the existing shower spout (with diverter). It has a hole on the bottom side (close to the wall) but there is no set screw there for unscrewing. I have cut out the caulking. I have tried pulling it out and unscrewing the whole thing, but I'm worried about trying too hard and snapping a pipe. I can only rotate it slightly clock-wise, but that's the wrong way to unscrew it.
Can anyone identify the model of the spout? That would be useful in finding out how it should get removed.
The problem is that the "back pressure" at the tub spout is too high. Remove the tub spout and check/remove any debris. If there is no debris in the pipe or spout, then there are a couple solutions for this.
Adding a water flow restrictor to the pipe that runs up to the shower head might work. This would require cutting into the wall, though.
But I believe that the better solution (in my humble opinion) is to raise the height of the pipe that goes to the shower head, because it involves no painting.
Plumbing is all about gravity and pressure. If the pipe going up to the shower head is high enough, the evil back pressure from the tub spout will not be able to push the water to the top of the pipe, to overflow to the shower head. Adding a couple feet of pipe (into the attic maybe) might not require cutting dry wall, provided that you can cut through the top plate of the wall and reach and remove the FIP adapter (or drop ear fitting). You will first need to unscrew/remove the shower arm and probabaly use a stubby screw driver and small pipe cutter to detach the adapter or fitting. You will then need (in a difficult to reach area) to use a "sharkbite" coupling to add and extend the pipe. Add as much vertical pipe as necessary; generally, a few feet should do the trick. If you want to be sure it is high enough, have a helper turn on the water (after you have connected the extension). It should not overflow. Connect two elbows with a 2.5 inch nipple, to form a "U" shape. Attach the FIP or drop ear to a length of pipe- the same length as the extension pipe that is now connected to the "sharkbite" (minus the added length from the "sharkbite"). Finish connecting the pipes so that you form a "loop", up then down to the hole for the shower arm. Reattach your shower arm. Use 2x4s to build a support bracket for the loop and be sure to support the missing chunk of top plate (top of the wall).
Are you sure the whole fixture is spinning? The type of light rated for wet locations used to have a rubber seal and screw fittings. Most of the time the "jelly jar" type fixtures the glass needed to be unscrewed (and they do get stuck and feel like they are going to break). There were some the metal ring was threaded holding the glass in place. So it could be that you need to unscrew the ring. Also check the ring for a small set screw to lock the Glass / ring in place.
Best Answer
These spouts are all fairly standard no matter the brand. It should unscrew counter-clockwise. Most that I've seen don't have set screws. If yours has one but it is missing there shouldn't be a problem unscrewing the faucet from the wall stub although it could be a little stubborn.
They often get corroded so you may want to spray some WD40 or another decalcifier up there using the straw they provide since the actual screw connection is usually toward the front of the faucet. Patience and a little elbow grease should do it.