I have a lot of frozen countersunk T10H security pin Torx head 6-32 screws to remove from cast aluminum weatherproof enclosures. I have tried tapping, torqueing in both directions, penetrating oil, heat gun and ice/freeze mist. Tried to use a drill press and clamping the enclosure in a vise, but even then, the security pin makes the drill bit "walk" off the very hard screw. Someone told me there is some kind of electrical device used my machine shops to remove screws from engine blocks, etc., by "burning" the screw out. Will this work on screws as small as 6-32? If so, what is the device called, so I may intelligently call around to machine shops to see if they possess one of these devices? Any other ideas? I have snapped screws off and also snapped off about 5 T10H tool bits.
I there any special penetrating oil for stainless steel to aluminum tapped holes?
Removing counter sunk metal security Torx head screws
screws
Related Solutions
You're using the wrong type of screws.
It should be a #7 Pan-Head
And Not the self tapping. The self tapping is good for thicker metal studs but the the sharp tip works best for those angle shots you're having trouble with.
Use #8 self tapping for the tougher thicker steel studs
If necessary any screw will secure the brackets to the door (in most cases). The reason to use sheet metal fasteners is to penetrate the metal door skin. Once the tip of the screw is past the metal surface it grabs and drills into the wooden frame work. The wooden skeleton of the door is the 4 outside edges and the 4 sides of the window. Your best bet for successfully attaching to the wood frame is to remember the frame extends about an inch wider than the windows perimeter. Keep your brackets (if possible) under an inch past the windows edge. It's the wood framing that is supporting the brackets. So if you drill an opening in the metal skin any screw will suffice.
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Best Answer
You are looking for Electrical Discharge Machining (EDM) and some versions should be able to work at the size you need.