I have 2 close by outlets that I tried to replace with a new usb outlet. The old outlets have white Black a red wires but the usb outlets have only two terminals. I replaced the first one, and put the red and the Black together in one terminals (hot) and the white on the other side. The first outlet works fine. I did the same with the second outlet but this one doesn’t work at all. Seems like it gets no juice. Any suggestions? 
Replacing an outlet with white black and red wires with a usb outlet with 2 terminals
receptaclereplacement
Related Solutions
There is no problem connecting wires to both the "back stab", and screw terminals of a receptacle. As long as the terminals are rated for the size of wire being attached. For example. Most "back stab" terminals are rated for 14 AWG solid copper wire, whereas screw terminals are usually 12 or 14 AWG solid or stranded copper.
With that said... It sounds like your receptacles might be hooked up backwards. The black ungrounded "hot" conductor should be connected to the brass colored screw, which is on the side of the receptacle with the shorter slot (at least in the US).
It sounds like you're looking to end up with something like this
Notice the white wire that's been repurposed, is marked at both ends with black tape/marker/paint. And that the tab between the top and bottom receptacles, is broken on the "hot" side of the device. Also notice that a pigtail is used, instead of connecting more than one wire to a terminal on the receptacle.
To determine which set of wires goes to the switch...
- Turn off the breaker, and make sure power is off.
- Set your multimeter or ohmmeter to test continuity or low resistance.
- Disconnect all the wires from the switch.
- Test between the black and white wire of cable 1.
- Test between the black and white wire of cable 2.
- Toggle the switch.
- Test the wires again
One pair of wires should test positive for continuity, when the switch is in the on position. This is the cable going to the switch.
NOTE: This type of installation is no longer code compliant (NEC), because it does not provide a grounded (neutral) conductor at the switch location.
NOTE: Grounding conductors have been omitted from the diagram for simplicity. Make sure all grounding conductors are properly installed.
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Best Answer
Here's what's gonna getcha with these types of sockets
That.
On a normal receptacle, that "Tab" decides whether those two screws are
USB receptacles (least, the ones I am aware of) do not support this separation of sockets. Nor do GFCI or any other specialty kind of receptacle, by the way.
If the tab is broken off, and you aren't wise to that and just connect the two wires together on the USB socket, then either a) the light switch will stop working, or b) there will be a loud BANG! and a breaker trip.
In either case, you have to decide which single wire you want both sockets to be powered from, and it either a) decides whether the all the sockets (USB too) are switched by the light switch or not, or b) either hot will suffice.
However, either way, the other now-orphaned wire must be capped and insulated.