I'm finishing a room that will have new carpet installed. I plan to install the baseboard height about 1/2" off the slab so carpet can flow underneath. The room is all painted (trim/walls), but no base is installed. My question is: should I cut the closet/doors trim/jambs at 1/2" as well (before base install) so the carpet can flow under or is it not a big deal? The carpet will be about 5/8" thick and 1/2" pad, uncompressed.
Should Door Trim/Jamb be flush cut with bottom of base for carpet install
baseboardcarpet
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I just recently finished my basement project. I spent a lot of time scouring the web and grilling friends and co-workers about their basements to gather information to try to make an informed decision on this very subject.
Here are the options I considered:
Carpet tiles directly over concrete
PROS
- cheap
CONS
- cold feet
- hard, unforgiving floors
- Potential for condensation/mildew, even if floor is mostly dry
VERDICT
- I couldn't find a tile with a padding thick enough to make the floor even close to comfortable in a midwestern US winter
Traditional carpet and pad directly over concrete
PROS
- Pretty cheap
- Many choices of carpet and padding thicknesses available
CONS
- Floor is still much harder than wood subfloor
- Even thick padding can still leave the floor a bit chilly
- Potential for condensation/mildew, even if floor is mostly dry
VERDICT
- Thick padding can help the floor feel less cold, and less hard, but it's no match for wood, especially if you have a kid's playroom or a workout room in the basement
- It seems like asking for moisture/mildew trouble to not allow air circulation between concrete and carpet
Rigid foam insulation under 5/16" plywood subfloor
PROS
- Cheap
- Good R-value to provide insulation from cold
- Feels almost as warm and soft as a regular subfloor
CONS
- Opinions vary about how long the foam will last before breaking down
- Installation instructions vary wildly (some anchor directly to floor, others anchor through wood bracing, etc.)
- Opinions vary about how much air circulation the foam would allow
VERDICT
- Although it doesn't seem like a terrible idea, there just wasn't enough information about this approach to make me feel comfortable trying it
DRIcore-style subfloor tiles
PROS
- Dimpled underside allows excellent air circulation over concrete
- Feels almost as warm and soft as a regular subfloor
- Most come in 2'x2' tiles so there are no 4'x8' sheets to lug around
- Easy install, much like a "floating" hardwood floor
- Nothing anchored into the concrete
CONS
- By far the most expensive option
- Each 4 sq foot panel is about $5.50 [as of 2016] USD
VERDICT
- I had a fairly large amount of floor to cover, and this was just too expensive. It would have approached 20% of the total budget for the project.
Dimpled underlayment under 5/16" plywood subfloor
UPDATED March 2019
The Platon underlayment I used years ago seems to be hard to find these days. Home Depot currently offers what appears to be a similar underlayment product called DMX 1-STEP, and others may be available from other manufacturers.
PROS
- Dimpled underside allows excellent air circulation over concrete
- Feels almost as warm and soft as a regular subfloor
- Much cheaper than the DRIcore tiles, because the Platon is purchased separately in large rolls
CONS
- More difficult to install than probably any other option
- 4'x8' plywood subfloor is no fun to lug around
- Requires the subfloor to be anchored to the concrete
VERDICT
- Although it required more manual labor, the cost was less than 10% of what it would have cost to use the DRIcore tiles
- I still got it done in just a few days, with some help moving the plywood
- I used a hammer drill and Tapcon concrete screws to secure the floor
- My basement floor is as warm and soft as any other floor in my house, and it didn't cost an arm and a leg
The easiest way to remove things is usually in the inverse order they were put in.
If you intend to put down new flooring, you must remove the tile anyway, so remove the tile first. I'll admit that the scariest thing to do might be the tear out. It forces you to accept that you are doing this thing, especially if you have never done something of this magnitude. It will make a mess of things for a wee bit.
I would suggest removing tile with a hammer and wide cold chisel. Break up at least a few tiles by hand. If you have a compressor available, a great tool here would be a flat air powered chisel. This tool would rapidly allow you to peel up the old tile. A bit noisy, but fast. If not, then the hammer and hand held chisel (don't use a wood chisel unless you have borrowed the wood chisel from someone you don't like) will do. Once a few tiles are up, you may find that a large ice scraper, used for breaking the ice from your sidewalk, will be useful to peel up the rest of the tile.
Once the tile has been removed, then remove the baseboard for later replacement.
Demolition can be the most fun part of a project. Try to keep the dust out of the remainder of the house, and use a dust mask.
Related Topic
- How to move a carpet tack strip about an inch inward (ie, remove about an inch’s worth of carpet)
- Flooring – Should I remove baseboards prior to installing laminate or wood floors
- How to install baseboards behind bifold closet doors
- Basement – How to finish a basement with a pitched floor
- Doors – Carpet padding with bi-fold closet doors
- Time Frame For Dealing With Flooded Carpet
Best Answer
I always hold casing to the same height as the base trim (3/8" or 7/16" is enough--1/2" risks showing a gap with thinner carpets). However, if the casing is already installed, don't bother making cuts now. Carpet layers can easily deal with that situation by tucking against it. It shouldn't be a visual concern.