Should I avoid working on the newly installed patio stones

I just completed a 90 square foot patio. I ended up putting down 4 inches of paver base (crushed concrete), 1 inch of sand, and then the 2 inch patio stones... so I dug down 7 inches all around. To be honest though, I went deeper than that in some places and ended up having to bring in much more paver base (crushed concrete) than I really needed. So maybe I have 6 inches of paver base in some areas. In my opinion, the key was the compacting. I highly recommend you rent a plate compactor. You should be able to rent one for less than $100 for 4 hours and it is completely worth it. You will only use it for 30 minutes but it will make the crushed concrete as solid as rock.

Also one of my neighbors who is a landscaper joked about how far I had dug down... he said I went way too deep and now I can land a helicopter on my new patio. I tend to agree with him that the 4+ inches of paver base was more than needed but still I am happy with how it all turned out.

Couple other notes:

• After compacting the crushed concrete it was smooth and solid. When you walked on it nothing moved... kind of like walking on concrete.
• Lowes/Home Depot sell paver base by the bag but that is much more expensive than having it delivered. 2 tons (approximately 1 cubic yard) of crushed concrete was not enough to cover my 90 square feet to a depth of 4 inches; I probably ended up putting down 3 tons.
• Since the patio was positioned next to a concrete sidewalk, I used an 8' 2x4 with a piece of scrap wood nailed to one end which gave me a depth of 3 inches (the sand and paver depth). Then I pulled the 2x4 back and forth across the area (with another person holding one end on the sidewalk) to level out the paver base before compacting (and to know where the shallow/deep spots were).
• I used 1 inch diameter pipes to give me the 1-inch depth for the leveling sand. Put two pipes down on the compacted paver base parallel to each other and then pour the sand on top. Then pull a 2x4 over the pipes to level the sand. Remove the pipes and then fill in the indentation by hand. Now lay your pavers (or patio stones).
• I used polymeric sand to fill the cracks in between the individual patio stones.

Updated with photo for @Chris Marasti-Georg (2013-05-20):

Eight feet is a common distance between posts, due to it being a standard lumber length. You will have a stiffer, longer lasting fence at 6-7 ft. An integer number of pickets with your desired spacing is a good way to decide from a design standpoint.
I prefer to sink posts to at least frost level (42" in my area). The 1/3 advice is good if frost is not an issue.

I also prefer crushed gravel (21AA or paver base) to place wooden posts (versus concrete or pea gravel). 3-4" in the bottom of the hole (beneath post), continuing up the sides of the posts to just below the surface. Give the post a push after first 5" and tamp along all 4 sides as you fill. This technique will greatly extend post life and minimize rot.

I've used the gate brackets that you build into the gate which have hinges built in. They will stabilize a 42" gate (each side). Extra long screws on the top hinge are helpful. Stainless steel cable run diagonally (with adjustment turnbuckles) run from the top of the hinge to bottom of the gate (at the opposite corner) will make it sag proof.

Disclaimer 1 user of product, no financial connection:

Disclaimer 2: Haven't used it but sounds interesting, YMMV (Near) Instant fence post backfill