glazingleakwindows
One of my large upstairs vinyl window frames is leaking rainwater onto the window sill. The base of the frame is filling up with water, which is then overflowing onto the sill, where the window meets it. By comparison, the bottom of the adjacent window frame (which isn't leaking) does not have any water in it.
I don't know whether water is SUPPOSED to get in, but then drain out, or whether it shouldn't enter to begin with. Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
For inexperienced DIYers; or any body not really comfortable with plumbing in general, the easiest option is to replace the whole faucet. While the faucet may be serviceable, stuck screws/bolts, proprietary disassembly steps, and difficulty finding replacement parts, make this a frustrating job for beginners.
The new faucet should come with instructions on how to install it, but here are the basic generic steps to remove the old faucet and install the new one.
Look under the sink, and you'll (hopefully) see something like this.
Actually, you'll see two. One for the cold water, and one for the hot. Turn the knob until the valve is shut. Then turn the faucet on all the way, just to make sure the valves are fully closed.
If you do not have valves under the sink; or the valves do not stop the flow of water, you'll have to shut the water off using another valve down the line or the main shutoff valve.
Attached to each of the shut off valves, there should be a hose like this.
In some cases a rigid or flexible copper pipe will be used as a supply line, instead of a flexible braided supply line.
Using a pipe wrench or tongue and groove pliers, disconnect these pipes from the valves.
Make sure you have a small bucket under the connection, to catch the water that comes out of the pipe. A small amount of water is normal, it's just the water that was left in the pipe between the shutoff and the faucet. If the water continues to flow or comes out under pressure, tighten the connection back up. This means the valve is not working or has not been fully shut off.
If you follow the supply lines (the pipes you just disconnected) up, you'll find the tailpiece (a long threaded pipe) with the mounting nuts at the top against the underside of the sink. There may be two (one where each supply line connects), or just one in the middle depending on the faucet make and model.
A basin wrench makes removing these nuts much easier.
On some faucets, the supply lines are part of the faucet and cannot be disconnected. In this case the mounting nut may or may not be right at the end of the supply lines.
Once the nuts are removed and the supply lines are disconnected from the faucet (if applicable), the faucet should just lift away from the sink.
Once the faucet is removed, scrape any old plumbers putty from the top of the sink using a 1" putty knife
Now that you have the old faucet removed, it's time to install the new one. Follow the instructions included with the new faucet, or these generic steps.
Grab some plumbers putty, and roll it into a "rope" (about 1/2" or so around) in your hands. place the putty rope either on the sink where the faucet will sit, or around the bottom of the faucet itself. The plumbers putty prevents any water that may be near the base of the faucet, from leaking down into the cabinet below the sink.
Do not use plumbers putty on natural stone (granite, marble, etc.) counter tops, use a bead of 100% silicone caulk instead.
Carefully put the faucet in place, and press it straight down (don't worry if some of the putty squeezes out, that's normal). If the faucet does not stand on it's own, get a helper to hold it for you. Go back under the sink, and install and tighten the mounting nut(s) on to the tailpiece(s) using the basin wrench again.
Remove any excess putty that squeezes out from around the faucet base.
If the old supply lines are still in good condition, you can reuse them. Otherwise, head to the hardware store and pick up new ones (if not included with the new faucet). Make sure to take the old supply lines with you, so you get the right ones.
Using the basin wrench again, connect the supply lines to the threaded tailpiece(s) on the faucet.
Connect the other end of the supply lines to the shutoff valves, making sure to connect the proper line to each shutoff (you don't want hot water coming out when you turn the faucet to cold).
Slowly turn the shutoff valves back on, and watch carefully for any leakage. If you see a leak, turn the valve off and tighten the connection where the leak is.
Turn the faucet on (testing both hot and cold), and look for any leaks.
Use PTFE thread seal tape on all threaded pipe connections, to reduce the chance of leaks.
If any of the threaded connections are difficult to remove (when removing the old sink), soak the connection in penetrating oil.
Both vinyl and aluminum have similar issues regarding thermal expansion. The siding must be installed with a gap to fixed objects in order for there to be room for expansion. If this is not done, the siding will expand against the obstruction. Not being able to move in that direction, it will buckle along it's length, causing unsightly bulges.
Therefor, J-channel is a common element in installation of both materials and is readily available in both aluminum and vinyl. I would consider J-channel the best solution, but it does involve more work than simply re-caulking.
Best Answer
Yes, vinyl windows are designed to allow water to get into the vinyl frame and then drain out the “weep” holes.
Little known fact, the actual “seal” is between the glass and the BACK of the frame. That is to say, there is a black seal strip between the glass and back of the frame. The “stops” on the exterior are just to hold the glass tight to the seal. The stop is NOT designed to stop rain water.
The weep holes are designed to allow the water out of the frame. Perhaps the weep holes are plugged and need to be cleaned, but to answer your question, yes, water is suppose to get in the frame and then drain out.
Btw, the mitered corners are supposed to be welded together. I’d check to make sure the weld has not been broken, because water could then leak out onto the window frame as you describe.