dryernatural-gas
I'd like to install a gas dryer by splitting the gas line that currently feeds the gas water heater. Is the solution as simple as splitting the line with a tee fitting/valve where the green arrow points? Any other parts needed?
Very likely not.
The codes around heating and cooling are very specific about the sizing of vent pipes - if the pipe is too small, you'll get back pressure and carbon monoxide issues. If the pipe is too large, you'll get condensation issues.
Adding another appliance to an existing vent pipe (whether a chimney or a PVC pipe) will almost certainly put it out of code compliance.
So I did it! And it turned out not to be the problem...
Things to note:
Here is the joint compound that I used
I also used teflon tape.
And of course, be sure to turn off your gas when working with it, drain your water heater if it is an older style model (like mine) and be careful putting everything back together.
My problem: My problem ended up being the thermocouple. The replacement pilot light assembly I had installed just 8 weeks ago ended up having a faulty thermocouple. Obviously I should have taken more time to test the thermocouple rather than spending all the time and money on a new valve. Ah well! I'll be putting in a new anode shortly and hopefully I will get another 3-5 years out of this water heater. Enough time to take care of the freon line when the budget allows...
Also worth mentioning, I found an identical gas control valve from a vendor on Amazon. Ever since I got the new pilot light assembly in place it has been working just fine.
Best Answer
Instead of teeing the 1/2" line where both appliances would be fed through the same section of 1/2" pipe, you would be better off installing the tee upstream, where the 1" coupling is now. This will ensure adequate gas volume to both appliances and allow you to install independent shut-offs. Yes, you will have to shut off the gas at an upstream location, maybe even all the way back at the meter.
You should take this time to eliminate the reducing bushings (I see both a 1"x3/4" and a 3/4"x1/2") as bushings are not supposed to be used on gas lines inside the home (check with your local permitting authority, but that's my understanding). I would just get rid of the 3/4" stuff completely and use a 1"x1/2"x1/2" tee and install valves with flare thread outlets to attach the flex line directly to. Iron pipe and fittings use a tapered thread, you need to get them tight for a good seal, and use thread tape approved for use on gas pipe.
If you are handy at all, you can do this job yourself (don't listen to naysayers), you are allowed to do this work on your own home in most places. Make sure you test all new fittings and those that were disturbed using "gas leak detection juice" or soapy water (little bubbles=small leak, big bubbles=big leak; NO leak is acceptable).