transformer
I got a 3000watt step down transformer(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LCSTP24/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to power my 1500 watt Ninja blender I got from US to run in India.
For some reason, whenever I plug the transformer in, the circuit trips. To be noted, that I got a similar step down transformer but a 1500 watt one to power my TV which doesnt trip any circuit.
Any clue why this is happening? Does the power rating of transformer cause this issue?
in mains electrical, wiring methods are everything. You're running smack into that right now.
What you were thinking of is this.
However for thermostat wiring, the above is a silly product, because generally speaking thermostat wiring is a permanent part of the building, and there'd be no reason to make it pluggable, and a lot of reason not to. Enter products like yours, which are designed to mount on standard 120/240V steel junction boxes, common as dirt in 120V wiring methods:
They're so common Amazon doesn't practically sell them, since every hardware store and electrical supply stocks them for about a dollar. As you can see, your transformer is made to be the lid of this.
However, you have it upside down. Code requires it be mounted with the AC power (black and white) wires on the inside, where they will splice to AC power wires also inside. The non-hazardous low voltage terminals are to be on the outside of the box.
Now, if your basement is unfinished, there's likely to be one of these junction boxes somewhere, with handy circuits behind it your electrician can tap. Alternately, she can fit one of these boxes at an appropriate location, and then use listed wiring methods compliant with the Electrical Code to bring 120V mains power to the box.
At that point, the electrician splices the transformer's 2 wires to mains power hardwired, fits the transformer as the box lid, tightens it down, and leaves. You use thermostat cable to take the 24V wherever you need to go. (or the electrician also could, obviously, and they're experienced at fishing wires through finished walls without wrecking drywall).
The key to this type is you let the thermostat wire do the traveling, you fit the transformer in a less finished utility space, crawlspace or basement where that makes sense. I would say that is also true of the wall-wart transformer you really want.
But you don't really want a wall-wart transformer, you want this thing, hardwired in and installed to code. Call an electrician, or learn proper wiring methods and fit your own box. DO NOT hork this thing together like you have been aiming to do so far.
You can't rely on the primary-side circuit breaker to detect all faults that can occur on the secondary side. You need to install separate protection for the secondary, appropriate to its ratings.
Best Answer
All transformers are essentially a "short circuit" for the brief instant that they are energized, because it is the interaction of the magnetic fields that impedes (resists) the flow of current, and for a brief instant, there is no magnetic field yet. This is called "inrush current" and can exceed 10x the rating of the circuit breaker. Often that inrush is of such short duration that it is too fast for the breaker to react to, but if it is TOO high, then it can trip the breaker. Because of this, MCBs, like the ones you show, can be purchased with different "trip curves". The ones in your photo are "C" curve, which are for general purpose use. For feeding a transformer, you want a "D" curve (so it would say D10 instead of C10). A D curve breaker will allow up to 14x the rating for the instantaneous trip function, which is designated for handling transformer inrush.
When the smaller transformer worked, it was because >10x the transformer inrush current is still less than the breaker instantaneous tripping point. You could get a similar effect by using a larger breaker, but then you would have to change the wire.