Extension cords need to be chosen according to the length and load. The following chart will guide you to the correct gauge to choose for any one extension cord. You might choose several different gauges in order to save money, properly configured you won't need to put 12awg wire everywhere:
To carry 20 amps any distance, you'll need 12awg cable. You could use one 50 foot 12awg cable to carry the current to a table, then three 16awg cables to carry the current to one or two computers each.
You might find it cheaper, however, to run two 14awg wires in parallel from one outlet than to run one 12awg wire.
Keep in mind that while some cable calculators and tables will indicate that 16awg can handle 20A, the cable will heat up, and if you've properly secured it to the floor using tape or channels with other cables running parallel, the heat buildup can be significant and dangerous. Particularly with long runs.
You should also consult with the hotel - many of them have requirements for extension cord use in conference areas, and in some cases you will be required to use their cables and installers in order to meet their safety and load planning requirements.
If you pay attention to the chart you'll note that each cable size and load include a voltage drop. You'll also realize that due to the wiring at the venue you'll see a voltage drop at the outlet as well. This will result in a lower voltage at each computer than 120V. However, as long as you keep your voltage drop below 10%, and the venue is wired correctly producing a less than 10% drop to the outlet under load, then it is unlikely that your computers will experience any problems. Most computing equipment that uses AC power has a universal power supply that accepts a wide range of voltage, often down to 90VAC. It will be a rare computer or peripheral that will have problems with the voltage drop presented by a suitably rated cable.
An extension cord
- is usually lighter gauge than house wiring
- introduces an additional connection, another opportunity for reduced voltage
- the connection may be exposed to dust and/or liquids
- the connection can easily be loosened exposing open, live conductors
- the connection may be in a place more accessible to children, pets, falling metallic debris, vehicle tires, etc.
The lighter gauge wire may lower the life of the fridge's motor by not providing full voltage especially during motor starting. In severe (though rare) cases, the light gauge wire could be a fire hazard if the fridge runs especially hard, like when an overabundance or lack of refrigerant oil causes the pump to work hard.
In commercial and industrial sites (at least around here), fire inspectors require immediate removal of extension cords from anything vaguely permanent looking.
If your kegerator is going to be in use for some time, why not install a real outlet in the right place for it? In a garage or utility area, the wall doesn't (usually—depending on your wife) have to be perfectly patched. The wire, outlet, box, nails, etc., won't set you back more than about $15.
Best Answer
It is not directional, but its position in the circuit does matter.
Most likely you are not looking at a circuit breaker, but a GFCI. These turn off the power if there is power coming out the hot wire but not returning through neutral. Which is what happens if someone touches one of the wires and a metal pipe. It is there to help prevent people from getting shocked, especially in wet environments.
If you swap the ends, it will still protect devices plugged into the cord, but probably won't be protecting its own wire anymore, which could be dangerous.
If it is just a GFCI plugging it into a GFCI receptacle would be fine — the receptacle will provide the same protection. The only downside is if it does trip, you will have to check both GFCIs to see which one needs to be reset.
If it is actually a circuit breaker, it will no longer be protecting its own wire, since if there was a short in the wire the current doesn't flow through the circuit breaker.