That is a 3-way dimmer, so you'll have to replace it with a 3-way switch. The new 3-way switch will have 4 terminals (screws), 1 black (Common), 2 brass (Travelers), 1 green (Ground).
When working with 3-way switches, the Common terminal will always be the odd color (odd man out). For example, on your current switch the Red wire is the Common. On a regular 3-way, the black (odd color) screw is the Common.
To prevent confusion, it's often a good idea to work with one wire at a time. Rather than disconnecting all the wires from the old switch, then trying to remember what went where.
- Start By turning off the power at the breaker, and verifying it's off with a non-contact voltage tester.
- Disconnect the bare copper wire from the old switch, and connect it to the green terminal on the new switch.
- Disconnect the black wire (the one connected to the red wire on the old switch), then connect it to the black (Common) terminal on the new switch.
- Disconnect the black and red travelers, and connect one to each brass terminal on the new switch.
- Turn the breaker on, and verify proper operation.
- Turn the breaker back off, and mount the switch in the box.
- Turn the breaker back on, and again verify proper operation.
What you have is a plain switch, a dumb 12VAC transformer for the pool lights (finally, someone who takes pool safety seriously, yay!) and several "smart" LED lights with a trick. They can change colors if power is interrupted for a moment. And they can all do this in sync, which is usually the hard part.
You are now implementing a "connected home" platform, and you'd like to control these LEDs. You're looking for some sort of glue/middleware device that will let Wink address the LEDs and change their colors. Nope.
Not supported
You can put a smart-switch on their supply, sure. You can have the Wink switch them on and off, sure. Wink might even be able to turn them on and off quickly, as needed to switch their colors. But Wink won't understand what it's doing or why it's doing it.
There won't be a way to tell Wink "make the pool orange" and have it tip-tap out the command to make those lights orange. There may, but it would involve some special software coding; the question is whether Wink gives you the platform/language to do that. Such a command series would not remember where the lamps are now, and certainly can't see them, so it would have to start the sequence from a cold reset-to-white, so it would take 10-15 seconds to reach any particular color. On the other hand, Christmas light controllers do that kind of thing for breakfast, so maybe.
This is a hard problem, and it is unsupported: there's nobody to call for support to make this work, as you are discovering.
Though, given the cost of these things, it might be worth contacting the factory. You can bet this has come up before. They might even have a solution, or be motivated to develop one. Their customer base are exactly the sort to do smart-home tech.
Or start over
One could go with LED lights designed to work with Wink -- or alternately, a controller designed to work with Wink. I don't think you care if they're individually addressible, so that's a plus. The big minus would be if this forces you to 120V lights - because you are quite correct to keep 120V away from your pool. Electricity is much more lethal in water, because you can't pull your hand away, and it only needs to stun you to drown you.
The good news is if you can get a Lutron dimmer that plays with Wink, maybe you can find an RGB controller that works with Wink too. I have started to see them from name-brand companies, so hopefully. Those controllers are designed for LED strips, input 12 volts DC, and output 3 channels (4 wires, R G B and common) which go direct to simple LEDs. That would require you to run 4-wire cable down to each of your pool light locations (I sure hope they're in conduit). And thermostat cable would suffice since you're at 12V.
Best Answer
Unfortunately, the answers to both of your questions are almost certainly "No".
As far as I can see, that system (like many other similar ones) does not run the power wiring for your lights to the switches.
The power for the lights runs to the control box(es) and from there runs to the lights themselves.
The switches are wired to the control box(es) using much smaller signalling/communication wiring - so the switches themselves do not see or handle the 'real' switching of the power to your lights.
Removing the control boxes leaves you with no power to your lights, and the only option you'd have is to simply bridge across where the control boxes were - resulting in your lights being always on.
You can't replace the smart switches with dumb switches because the switches and control boxes have a communication protocol which they use to talk to each other. The control box wouldn't know what the dumb switch is trying to tell it with a simple on/off signal when it's expecting to see a complex 'language' over the wire.
Unless you want to go through with the exercise of completely re-wiring the switches (replacing the small-gauge signal cables with larger power wires) you're stuck with this (or another similar) 'smart' system.
FWIW I design & program commercial smart lighting systems like this for my day-job...