Switch – Problem with outdoor gfi to switch to outdoor pond pump

GFCI devices work by measuring the current flowing on the ungrounded (hot), and grounded (neutral) conductors. They do this by running both the conductors through a current transformer (CT), which produces a current on the secondary winding whenever there's a difference in current between the two primary conductors. So as long as both the ungrounded and grounded conductors are carrying the same current, there will be no current on the secondary of the CT. If there was a ground-fault, the current on the conductors would be different and a current would be induced on the secondary of the CT.

If there's no current flowing on the circuit conductors, then there's no way to induce a current on the secondary of the CT. Therefore, there's no way to trip the GFCI. So if you've removed the fixture, the GFCI should not trip.

If this diagram is accurate...

The only way the GFCI could trip, is if current was being introduced somewhere. Like if one of the conductors was shorted with a conductor from another circuit, or a different part of this circuit.

There has to be more to this situation, than the information you've provided. Simple explanations might include:

• If the switch is in a box with other switches, and the grounded (neutral) from the GFCI was interconnected with the other grounded (neutral) conductors in the box.
• A couple cables are stapled together, and the staple has shorted some of the conductors together.

Since you say that removing the white (grounded (neutral)) conductor from the LOAD terminal fixes the problem, I'd guess that the problem lies with that conductor.

If you have a really accurate ammeter, you could clamp it on the white wire and see if there's any current on it. To do this, you'll have to connect the wire to the line terminal (as you described in a comment). You'll only do this temperately, while you're taking the reading.

Alternatively, you could trace the wire and look for damage, or interconnection with other wires.

This is how a typical receptacle/switch combo is wired.

A combination GFCI/switch, is going to have a different terminal layout. First, the switch terminals are no longer on the device. Instead they're a couple wires shooting out of the device.

Next you'll notice a set of terminals labeled LINE, with a brass terminal on one side, and a silver on the other. There will be another set of brass/silver terminals, but these will be labeled LOAD (these are typically covered by a sticker).

When wiring the GFCI/switch combo, it will look something like this.

The challenge you'll face, is determining which black wire is "hot", and which is "switched".