Winter is approaching and I have heard that some people insulate glass windows and balcony doors during winter to preserve heat. What materials can I use to do this? I am living in a rented apartment, so I would like to have something which I can easily remove, when it is not needed.
The best way to insulate a room with glass window for winter
insulationwinter
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Definitely close off the ceiling rather than plugging the vents, IMHO.
The "fanfold" insulation [typically 1/4" X 4ft X 50 ft - R1 possibly some thicker versions available, on a quick look around - thicker would of course be higher R-value, as well] intended for use under siding (and sometimes roofing) might be another option, in larger sheets (less joints to seal.) More than just vapor barrier...and it might support more serious insulation (just not too much) above it.
I presume that you recognize and accept that until you do drywall over it, this (or vapor barrier, or XPS sheets, etc...even exposed fiberglass, to an extent) is a fire hazard. In a similar situation, I'm putting my effort towards getting the drywall on the ceiling so I can insulate the heck out of the ceiling - a 5000W heater does not go very far, otherwise. Specifically, 5KW * 3413 btu/kWh = 17065 btu/hr (input) - .vs. 720 sqft (30x24) of R1 (1 Hr x sq-ft x degree F/BTU) ceiling would only net you 23.7 degrees (F) (17065/720) above outside ambient if that were the ONLY place heat was lost (floor, walls, doors all infinitely insulating, and zero air exchange - obviously an incorrect assumption - just illustrating the point.)
If the walls are 8 ft high, amounting to 864 sq ft, plus the 720 sq ft of ceiling, and we assume that all are insulated to R11 (optimistic for many garage doors and all regular doors & windows - but low for most modern walls and ceilings) the same 5KW could heat to 118 F above outside ambient (but I'm still ignoring the floor and air exchange...)
Go ahead and block them off.
My house was built in the same era and has similar vents in the bedrooms. I believe the rationale is the construction of this era had become so tight that infiltration alone was insufficient to provide fresh air into the house, so these vents were installed as intentional infiltration.
In my case, I'm not convinced the construction was all that tight. Even if yours is that tight, you get enough infiltration from the old section that I don't think you will have an issue with stale air if the vents were sealed off with insulation. Even if you do notice the air being stale afterwards, it's easy enough to remove the insulation to regain some infiltration.
If you do find the need for some fresh air, the only energy efficient solution is an air to air heat exchanger that heats incoming air with the residual heat of outgoing air. These units are installed in homes that are truly tightly built. As in refrigerator like tightness. Without these exchangers air in such houses becomes noticeably stale.
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Best Answer
You can build a 2"x2" frame that's 1/2" smaller than the inside window opening, apply shrink insulation film to that and then use 3/8-1/2" foam backer rod to hold it in place in the window opening during winter.
This makes a shrink-film internal storm window that's easily removed and if you're careful, just needs a touch-up with the heat gun next winter to re-tauten the insulation film. The backer rod is usually a better product than rubber foam insulation tape for sealing around the outside of this storm window as the backer rod isn't quite so likely to bond to latex paint and saves you from the double-sided tape mess that's involved by applying to the window frame to hold the insulation film.
We used these for years till I broke down and did a rip'n replace on the single pane aluminum frame condensation/draft magnets misnamed "Window" that were originally installed.