We have a smell that I'm sure comes through from the standpipe when washing machine is in use. The standpipe doesn't seem to smell after use though(like this evening, last wash was earlier in day). The waste hose is loose on floor and then loosely hung into the standpipe about 6" . The hose is not clipped to the back of the machine (which would make the pipe vertical, then horizontal to the standpipe , would this cause some form of backflow having it loose? The reason I haven't used the mounting clip on back of machine as it then stops the machine being pulled forward and looks to put pressure on the hose going into the standpipe.
Hose is bottom right of rear (if standing in front of door) and clip vertically above it. Standpipe is on left side wall . If I removed the bend thing then it may be mountable.
The waste hose on washing machine sits on floor/low
washing-machine
Related Solutions
A washing machine should have
- One detachable flexible cold water feed of indeterminate length.
- One detachable flexible hot water feed of indeterminate length.
- One possibly detachable flexible drain line of indeterminate length.
- One permanently attached electrical cord of indeterminate length.
So the problem you have now is figuring out how long each of these are,and how to disconnect them. It sounds like you don't have much access to the back of the machine to get a good look, so a mirror attached to a telescoping handle might come in handy here.
Once you get a better idea of what's behind the machine, you'll have a better understanding of how to move it.
It sounds and smells like the pump that purges the water from the tank has failed. This could be due to bad windings on the motor, motor damaged due to excessive surges on the power line (perhaps lightening while the washer was running) or some object getting down into the pump and jamming it up so the motor overheats.
If the tank drains normally after the unit has been allowed to cool down then the problem may be in the timer unit that sequences the wash / rinse cycles. These timer units (particularly on older units before everything went electronic) also have a low power motor that can burn out.
The timing sequence controller in a washer also controls relay contacts and high power switch contacts that turn the motors and pumps on and off. Sometimes these contacts go bad and start to spark and burn. It is possible for the contacts to weld together and prevent the proper sequencing of the timer past a certain point in the cycle.
In either case of the issues involving the timer it usually requires replacement of the timer unit. This can get relatively expensive to repair so it is worthwhile to evaluate the age and condition of your existing unit so you can make an intellegent choice between repair and replacement of the unit.
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Best Answer
Yes there will be a little stagnant water but there always is the pump is in the bottom of the machine and it can only push water out as long as there is water to push when the pump stops the pipe is still full any extra pipe on the ground will add to that amount but a couple of inches won’t be more than a cup or 2 added to what is there no washer that I know of empty’s that last quart or so of water.