The cooling test sequence for this board, says to jumper Y & G to R. Make sure the fan comes on, and spins up to the proper speed. Then remove the jumpers, and check the fan off delay.
If the blower does not come on, verify that the COOL terminal is energized. Use a voltmeter between COOL and neutral, and verify 120 volts (with jumpers in place).
If the COOL terminal is energized, check the motor and verify all speeds are working properly.
If the COOL terminal is not energized, the board my be bad.
According to the schematic you've provided, you have a multispeed blower (which is quite common). The speed at which the motor runs, is determined by which wire is energized. Energizing the red wire; for example, will run the motor at low speed. Energizing the black wire, runs the motor at high speed.
Before you disconnected the board, one of the motor wires was connected to the HEAT terminal on the board, and one was connected to the COOL terminal. Looking at the ladder diagram, it looks like the blue (MED) wire was connected to the HEAT terminal, and the black (HI) wire is connected to the COOL terminal.
If you've run the tests described above, and found that the COOL terminal is energized when the jumpers are in place. You can try connecting a different speed wire to the COOL terminal. If the motor spins up with the other wire connected, it means that the original speed is dead or something's wrong between the board and the motor.
It looks like the LO speed red wire is attached to the M1 terminal on the board. I'd swap that to the COOL terminal (just temporarily for the test), and see if the motor spins up when the jumpers are in place.
WARNING: DO NOT run the A/C for long with the motor at a lower speed..
Some of the older Goodman furnaces was equipped with a flame sensor it was just a solid metal probe with one attached wire and when it heated up it caused a small millivolts in the probe if this sensor fails your furnace will not light or will go out after a few seconds, only maintenance required is cleaning the metal probe with steel wool or sand paper and check for a loose terminal due to heat stress its cheap and inexpensive to replace so it should be replaced every 5 years most problems with these probes were burned wires and connections as they are directly in contact with the burner (NOTE) Goodman furnaces were designed to run a few seconds in order to give the flame sensor time to heat up and produce the electrical current to activate the switch if no activity is sensed the burner will shut off, a flame sensor works on the same principal as an expansion thermo coupling except there is no movement on a flame sensor it works on millivolts of current generated by heating metal where as a thermo coupling has a mechanical rod in the housing that moves with heat expansion and stays as long as the pilot is burning,
Best Answer
Connect the switch from R to G
Wiring a standard light switch between R and G will do what you want -- the switch will perform the exact same function as the fan switch on a thermostat in gas mode. Namely, you'll be able to run the fan without heat by turning the light switch on, but the furnace will run the fan on its own when heat is called for, using its internal fan-thermostat.